Will Pace RC31's @ 440 be a problem on Clockwork?

[toontra]

I've had a set of Pace RC31's with a 1" steerer knocking around for a while, waiting to go on a 90's Clockwork, but I've just realised they are the longer 440 crown to axle length rather than the 420.

Is this going to be a problem with geometry/setup? If so I may as well sell them on. Cheers.

 

[gump]

aren't the old clockworks around 390mm a-c?

In which case you will be riding a chopper! Think forks 2" longer, bars 2" (ish) higher, head and seat angles slackened off etc.

Not like it wouldn't 'work' but not something I would do. Flog on the forks and pick up some cheap P2 or std forks is prolly best

 

[Andy R]

Personally I'd try them and see how you like them - you might end up with a setup that you actually prefer. Slightly slacker head angles (rule of thumb is 1 degree per 20mm fork length) are no bad thing on some of these older frames, in my opinion, and the saddle position relative to the BB can be corrected by moving it forwards on the rails or using an in-line post.

Higher bars aren't always a "bad" thing either - what with that and the slacker head angle you might have a bike that feels more confident and stable, especially on rough downhills. I'm using 440mm forks on a frame designed for 395mm and it neither looks nor handles like a chopper....

 

[toontra]

Higher bars aren't always a "bad" thing either - what with that and the slacker head angle you might have a bike that feels more confident and stable, especially on rough downhills.

I wouldn't mind the higher bar position. On my current Clockwork with original Orange forks at 395 I have a threaded-threadless 1" to 1 1/8" quill adaptor with just under 1" showing (where spacers would be on a threadless) and riser bars probably giving another 1", so another 2" with flat bars would actually result in the same grip height.

I guess I'm more concerned about whether I could get the same "knee over pedal" position (for power transfer) with saddle/seatpost adjustment, or whether the result would just feel weird!

I'd give it a try, but it will be reasonably expensive experiment after paying for a new headset, bars, fitting, etc.

 

[Tallpaul]

Higher bars aren't always a "bad" thing either - what with that and the slacker head angle you might have a bike that feels more confident and stable, especially on rough downhills.

At the expense of handling on singletrack and stability on climbs. In my book, it's horses for courses with bikes and a Clockwork should be setup for the use it was intended

 

[Andy R]

I guess I'm more concerned about whether I could get the same "knee over pedal" position (for power transfer) with saddle/seatpost adjustment, or whether the result would just feel weird!

Assuming that the change in fork length is about 50mm and that the wheelbase about 47 inches that makes the angle change 2.4 degrees.

You'd could move the saddle forward somewhere in the region of 1.25" to compensate, but if you don't try and replicate the exact same bar height above the ground but let it go to where the longer forks dictate, then all the contact points stay in the same relative positions anyway.
You might find that the sightly different weight distribution makes the bike more willing to pop the front wheel up on steep climbs or to wash-out on loose corners, a slight change in upper body position can easily counteract this though. Against that you get a bit more grip at the rear wheel plus it's easier to loft the front wheel over logs and rocks and carry it off drop-offs too.

 

[Andy R]

it's horses for courses with bikes and a Clockwork should be setup for the use it was intended

I agree entirely - that'll be for XC then , which I interpret as riding with a bit of everything thrown in. Fireroad climbs, snotty technical climbs, fast smooth downhills, nadgery trialsey downhills, uphill and downhill singletrack.
Everywhere that's worth riding here is either up or down (and bloody wetter than any winter too).

 

[toontra]

It'll be almost entirely for urban/road use - commuting and the like.

 

[Augustus]

I actually opted for the 440's after feeling the 420's were a bit low and found them to be exactly the same height as a locked out SID, so fine on my 80mm adjusted frame.

 

[gump]

why go to the expense? :? If you can just plonk them on, then try. If you have to buy a load of stuff, I wouldn't.

Its a clockwork, the forks are worth more than the fame. They will make it handle weird as they were not at all sus corrected. It will look funny. Keep it as intended, if you want a bike with weird geometry there are planty of on-ones to choose from

All IMO, but you ask whether to sell them on. I would.