Why 'STEEL IS REAL' - the science bit!

shaun

Retrobike Rider
WHY STEEL IS REAL

Here's the way it works...on a downtube that's 31.8mm in diameter, the butts (tube wall thickness at the ends of the tube) are 0.9mm thick, less than a millimeter. :shock: The mid portion of the tube is only 0.6mm thick! :shock: :shock: Fortunately you can't see that, because that's even scarier. In aluminium, carbon or titanium or anything other than strong CroMo steel, these dimensions would be instantly foolish and dangerous, but it works in steel, because steel has the corrct balance of strength, toughness and rigidity. Quality steel tubing (often alloyed with chromium, vanadium or molybdenum) thus will soak up some of the vibration giving a very comfortable ride and is also resistant to 'fatigue' and therefore resistant to cracking. So long as it dosn't rust, a steel frame should last you a lifetime. :cool:
 
The thickness of the steel doesn't scare me at all. A tube is inherently strong whatever the material, all things being equal.

Thin walled steel works in this instance because of its fatigue strength, and more people are familiar with working with it than the more exotic materials.

Devils egg based alcoholic drink speaking.
 
Why 'Steel is Real'

I bought my first 'race' quality mountain HT way back in 1993, which was made from high quality butted CroMo steel and then proceed to 'upgrade' every year going form a quality butted aluminum HT, titanium, aluminium FS, Carbon and after nearly 20 years I am back to the start again on a retro 1998 Kona Explosive made from Reynolds 853 tubing and guess what - IT FEELS SPOT ON! :shock: I'm sticking with steel now, it may not be 'trendy' but it sure makes me feel good on the trail and 'at the end of the day' thats the most important part of mountain biking! ;)
 
I think steel is trendy but it not a big trend in the MTB world in which fashion is driven by riding bigger dropoffs, faster downhill, bigger jumps, more rocks e.t.c. Steel MTB's are perfect for XC riding and and you can get away with a lighter rigid fork on a steel frame. In fact R853 frame, rigid forks (Pace RC31) and light weight V's for stopping along with XTR kit would be my perfect XC bike.
 
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