why are square taper B/B 's such a pain in the a£$E !!!

[one-eyed_jim]

Hopefully the next 5 years will see us settle into a BB30/90 standard so proper big bearings can be fitted inside proper big BB shells. Then we can have stiff axles running on bearings housed within the frame, as it should be.

I'll drink to that.

On the other hand, the advantage of square tapers is all the games you can play mixing and matching to optimize chainline or Q. With the newer systems you're stuck with what they give you.

I've never had any problems getting my cranks off, but then I'm a taper greaser...

 

[porkypaw]

Don't know if this may help, I've stripped arms before then sussed out that I was bottoming the tool in the arm putting too much force on the arm threads.
I always back it off a turn now and use a spanner to stop it bottoming.

 

[ragnar1984]

... just like the pointless aluminium bolts that you couldn't tighten much and would round off in no time .

A trick i learned many years ago: first tighten down the crank with a steel bolt and then substitute it for the aluminium bolt.

 

[Iwasgoodonce]

Never had a problem. My crank extractor must be worth at least £3.99. I always lightly grease the tapers too. Dura Ace? What do they look like? They sound cool. The other thing I always do is use air to blast the threads clean and then oil the treads before going to work with the extractor.

 

[breezerboy]

We have a tool at the shop that reams out the damaged thread then cuts a new, slightly oversize one. Using the supplied extractop the crank can be pulled off with no damage o can be used again. If you have a good local bike shop they may have one too (made by Cyclus).

Best option to stop stripped threads in the 1st place is a decent (Park, Shimano or Campagnolo) extractor screwed into nice clean threads.

 

[fingers]

Never had a problem.

Golden rule - never thread the extractor all the way into the crank arm. And grease all over the end of the extractor.

Works for me.

Worst jammed crank BB nighmare revolved around (geddit?) ao octalink setup.

 

[mikesnowdon]

I also have a Parktool extractor and Ive never has an issue with it.

I always clean and lightly grease the tapers before re-fitting the cranks. Make sure the extractor is screwed in all the way so its got enough threads to hold onto when you start winding it in (you don't need to wank it up tight with a spanner, you'll cause unnecessary wear on the threads of you cranks). If it feels tight resist the temptation to lean on the handle, just gradually increase the pressure, back off and repeat. It will seem pointless but each time you do this you will loosen the arm ever so slightly till eventually it'll come right off.

If the arm is on really tight try this: Remove the bolt. Then stand on the bike with the cranks horizontal, bounce up and down on them a few times. Then rotate the cranks to the opposite keep horizontal and bounce again. Do this a few times and try the extractor again.

Always clean and grease you tapers! This stops creaks (so you don't find yourself winding up the crank bolts super tight to try and stop it) and helps the crank arm slide onto the taper. Tighten you cranks, ride a little, tighten again, done.