wheels -slight play & smooth or no play & slightly scratchy?

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slightly crunchy usually not OK, although slight crunchiness can come from (i) slight wear on cone and/or cup even if pre-load is right; (ii) bearings over tightened; (iii) eccentricity in the bearings somewhere - bent axle for example.

(i) you live with
(ii) and (ii) are BAD

(ii) you can deal with - although I have found in the decades I have done cup and cone, that some wheels come together in a couple of minutes, while some take literally hours to get right - and I have had a lot of experience in doing it. I have learned extreme patience through this particular task. I have only ever done it as a home tech, and I can't imagine retail techs spending as much time on setting the pre-load. It's why knock-in bearings are simpler (but rather more wasteful of metal). Setting cup and cone is becoming a kind of lost art and I think it's worth keeping alive. Some Shimano cu and cone bearings were superb and they have retained the design longer than many.
 
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On perfect hubs I set just enough pre-load that there is no lateral play on rim when the QR is fully done up. I remove any external seals and check it runs on and on without drag. Then re-fit the seals.

On the other 99% of hubs I follow the same procedure but check the play at every 90 degrees of the wheel. Normally there is perfect adjustment on 3/4 of the wheel, but in one position it will have a little play.

Unless the cones or cups are pitted, I would not expect any notchyness or roughness. If you’re working with damaged parts, then set for the least worst option which is a middle ground somewhere between too much play and too much roughness. At either extreme you’ll make it worse.

As said above, you need patience! I almost always use new ball bearings when overhauling hubs. They’re so cheap if you bulk buy.
 
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Thanks all!

I instinctively concur with the 'any crunchiness must be bad' school of thought.

But that is not based on experience, just instinct.

I will sit down with them and give it an hour - after that, if i can't find the sweet spot, it's (very slightly) loose and (super) smooth all the way for me :)

Cartridge bearings - best invention ever.

Ok, that might be a slight exaggeration :?
 
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Hmmm.....the bicycle is a good invention for sure.

Pre-dated somewhat by the wheel i would speculate.

But on reflection i would have to say the best invention ever is.....

Cider :D

That's Devon cider mind - not that stuff from 'up country' :roll:
 
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What do you mean predated by the invention of the wheel? That’s lost knowledge, that is. The wheel has just been reinvented after the discovery of the mountain bike. 26 then 27.5 then an outlandish expansion to 29.
 
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2manyoranges":2f35c3r1 said:
What do you mean predated by the invention of the wheel? That’s lost knowledge, that is. The wheel has just been reinvented after the discovery of the mountain bike. 26 then 27.5 then an outlandish expansion to 29.

VERY good point - well made.

I've lost count of the times i've told people to beware the marketeers and not listen to the 'you're bike is rubbish becasue it's all wrong wrong wrong, but if you buy this £3K plastic rocket with these NEWLY INVENTED wheels and BOOST technology and oversize this and thru axle that - you are guaranteed to go faster and have WAY more fun' :shock:

I usually suggest that hard work, practice and persistence would make them go faster, have more fun and save them £3K ino the bargain :idea:

I'm selling my 27.5'' wheeled 'all mountain' bike if anyone's interesed - 27.5'' wheels are rubbish..... :?

It does have cartridge bearing hubs though :)
 
I set my wheels' bearings with very minimal play at the axle, then stick them into the frame and lock the QRs properly. Then check the play and see if the tube valve has enough mass to start a rotation when it's at 1 'o clock. If it does, with no axle play, then all is fine & dandy :cool: , though it takes some fiddling usually and demands immaculate inside parts :facepalm: .
 
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For the life of me I can't see why tightening the QR exerts enough force to change the preload on the bearings....but indeed, experience says it does, you are right. I to use the 'does the weight of the valve rotate the wheel' test - I should have put that into my posts - it's an excellent check.
 

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