If the hub had drilled holes it might have been a whole lot easier maybe.I would suggest you unbuild one side and take the spokes out.
Look at the crossed pairs.
You need to notice that the spoke holes are out of phase with each other.
If you are inserting a trailing spoke, it starts at the spoke hole to the left (or right) of its opposite trailing number, and the nipple will fit in the corresponding left (or right) hole in the rim.
Basically the set of spokes on the 2 sides are identical, but one set is rotated 1/36 around!
I.e. the spoke holes correspond to the drilling on the rim.
This all needs to be considered before lacing.
If this is too condensed to understand, i would suggest you read a book on it.
Building wheels is simple enough, but there are a few geometric moves you have to make that aren't obvious to a novice. If you miss one, your equal spokes suddenly seem unequal!
Good method but, problematic on thick spokes or small rims, as manoeuvring the other side inboard spokes means bending and forcing them though a sea of already crossed spokes.Massive Shraner lacing method fan here.
I've tried 3 cross nds but the spokes aren't close enough to be able to thread on the nipples.Are you sure they shouldnt be three cross nds, it would certainly explain why they are sticking out.
Although the entry angles on the eyelets look about right....but that's hard to really tell in a photo...
The hub flanges do have different diameters. I have measured the spokes numerous times, there isn't much difference between them. As I understand, the number of times you cross the spokes is dictated by the number of spokes. In my case it's 36.Ok. After a nights sleep.....
Did you say the hub flanges are different sizes? If so, stupid question, but you have got the right spokes in the right side!
Also you are crossing the right number on the right side? Could it be the drive side was 4x?
That combined with the wrong spokes on the wrong side would cause al kinds of problems.
Silly questions, but just to be certain!