Wheel lacing / Spoke size help

K2edg

Retro Newbie
Hi all.

I'm new to the forum but i have been into Retro fat tube MTB's for a long time now and i own an early Marin Indian Fire train and a Muddy Fox Alu Team Pro. A couple of weeks ago i managed to break the rear rim on my Muddy Fox (the brake contact area wore through and the rim let go coming down a big hill :( )

So to cut a long story short i have managed to get hold of a good replacement rim (Thanks MatBH5) and because the hub was a bit corroded as i use the bit all weathers :) i have got hold of a nos hub exactly the same as mine too :D so i'm now thinking as i've never built a rim before to do it properly and fit new spokes too but apart from retruing a few i have never laced one or more to the point never had to select spokes so i thought i'd run it past you guys.

Ok this is where i'm at (does this sound right?)

The Rim is a 26" Mavic 230 TIB 32 hole so after a bit of searching old posts i found this http://www.bikepro.com/products/rims/rimtables.shtml which says it has an ERD of 546mm

Now moving onto the Hub, its a XT M732 , the Hub flange Dia is 46mm, the hub has 2.6mm spoke holes, the over all length between the mount flats is 130mm (which makes the centre 65mm). Now this is where i think i may have gone wrong, i need to work out the Hub Center to Flange Center and as this is a rear wheel we're talking about i have measured the Cassette end from the mounting flat to the Spoke flange which was 45mm then do i just take the 45 from the 65 so the Hub Center to Flange Center would be 20mm? and the non gear end was 32mm to the spoke flange so that would be 65 - 32 = 33mm. Is that correct?

I then found this calculator http://www.bikeschool.com/tools/spoke-length-calculator and after running my sizes through it i got 264.5mm drive and 265.8 non drive. Does that sound right to only have 1.3mm difference? and does it mean i need 264mm and 266mm spokes?

I then had a look to see what sort of price the spokes where and i noticed there was not 2.6mm spokes? i have a feeling its the ameture in me talking but it has 14g on the Hub so does that mean the hub end might be thicker on the 2mm spokes?

At this point i could cheat and look at my old rim but tbh i would love to know how its done as i've never had the chance to build a wheel before.

Sorry if all this sound a bit "first book of bikes" i just find it interesting.
 
Re:

If the old one sat properly,eaure the spokes just to be sure.
But 267/265 iirc so 264/266 will probably work ok.

Based on 32hole 3x no idea if 135 or 130 OLN. And M230 which are same erd you gave.

BUT measure the ERD yourself.

All measurement I used are from. Www.leonard.io/edd/
 
Re:

Hub flange should be 45mm diameter as per Shimano hubs

Using you flange distances since you have them 265/266 are what I get.
 
Re:

Would 1mm make much difference to the dish? the thing that confuses me more than anything is i'm looking at the old wheel and there is a dish to it but its not massive i did think about take a couple of spokes out to check but it looks like some one has used the same length on both sides as the spoke comes through the nipple more on the non gear spokes?
 
Re:

Both 266 then. Just measure them if you can. Inside of elbow to the end. Do a few of each side to make sure.

Length doesn't alter dish as you just true to a place. It alter how much is/is not in the nipple.
To little and the spoke could pull/snap the nipple and with less thread binding, may come loose easier.
To long and it can pole into the tubes, make it harder to alter from the screwdriver end or not tighten up as you run out of thread and bottom out on the nipple.
But dish does not alter.
 
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