Wheel Building with 2nd hand parts, opinions wanted...

[Aech]

I'm about to build up a wheel with a rim I've had for years and a hub I bought off here 2nd hand. When looking at the marks on the (new to me) hub where the spokes have rubbed the anodising off it's previously been build backwards to how I usually build a wheel.

Am I better fitting the spokes as they previously were or do I build it the way I've always done ?

Whatcha reckon folks ?

 

[mdvineng]

Without Xray or residual stress analysis tests it's a try it and see!

 

[Aech]

The main reason I'm asking is because the hub is a Hope Ti-Glide and those are known to self destruct all by themselves so I'm trying to take a cautious approach as I intend to ride this wheel hard when finished and I'd rather it didn't fail on me whilst bombing down a decent...

 

[mdvineng]

Ti glide not worth the risk, even if you used the same lace pattern.

 

[fettler]

I'd go for it in the same pattern as before. No point in creating another set of stress risers and it looks a mess with old spoke marks. Make sure the rim is a good straight one. Revolve it around a known straight wheel. If the rim is a bit egged it will need higher tension in that area so better with a perfectly straight rim. I know Ti Glides crack, it might be next month but it might last another 20 years. I've cracked a few but I've got a blue Ti rear which I've had from new, it's on its third rim now and it's been raced, jumped, gone touring with 16 stone me on for nearly 30 years and it's fine.

 

[Aech]

Ti glide not worth the risk, even if you used the same lace pattern.

It's got to be Ti-Glide, anything else is not an option. Hope did a retrofit disc brake conversion that bolts to the rear dropout and uses a shorter Ti-Glide axle.

The frame is a '96 Zaskar LE that I've ridden from new and only has bosses for V-brake/cantilever brakes that are garbage in comparison to hydraulic disc brakes. I converted it to discs back then and have no intention of ever reverting back to poor brakes.

I'd go for it in the same pattern as before. No point in creating another set of stress risers and it looks a mess with old spoke marks. Make sure the rim is a good straight one.

My instinct is saying build it as it was previously for just that reason, it will probably mean the nipples sit in the rim holes slightly differently but I've never had a rim hole fail, if it's going to let go anywhere it's always the hub flange in my experience.

As for the rim it's still perfectly true just like the day I bought it, it's not the lightest rim at 555 grams but it sure is strong and that's far more important to me. I previously bent several Mavic rims on this bike before I switched to this Rigida DP22.

 

[fettler]

I've got one of Ti front disc hubs with a removable spider. The spoke holes and flanges are fine but it has a few cracks around the body where it bonds to the Ti. I'm still using it, I'm running 4 different Hope Ti hubs at the moment with 2 more to be built soon. I think a lot of the damage is done when trying to straighten a buckled wheel and excess tension is introduced.
What do you mean by its been built backwards?

 

[Tootyred]

I assume he means push pull reversed. Build as it was for aesthetic reasons. Then match the other.

 

[Aech]

What do you mean by its been built backwards?

Okay, as an example if the spokes on the cassette side with their heads on the outside of the flange lead around the wheel then obviously the other spokes on that flange must trail around the wheel. Looking at the marks on the hub left by the previous way it was built up it is the opposite way to how I usually build a wheel.

I don't know if it makes any difference which way you set out the spokes but I have always done it the to the same pattern that the pros use figuring that they know best.

 

[Tootyred]

No difference......same number of push / pull (leading / trailing) spokes. Just do it the way it was or you will see all the marks from the previous spokes....so purely aesthetic reasons.

If you want to make your like easier fit the spokes going towards the opposite flange on each side first....that way your not trying to lace the crossing spokes through a forest of spokes.