What's the relevance of a pitted hub cone/cup?
- Thread starter Ugo51
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Carlton_gang
Dirt Disciple
Re:
I guess there is something quite satisfying about the end result, it's just the frequency that you have to do it that annoys me.
I guess there is something quite satisfying about the end result, it's just the frequency that you have to do it that annoys me.
Carlton_gang
Dirt Disciple
Re:
This is true, I do them reasonably regularly, it's more because I have a lot of bikes that's the issue.
I usually do them after winter. Although I was doing them more, but I've cut down on how often I was the bikes as I realised I might be washing the grease out, no matter how careful I was with just using the gentle spray setting on the hose. The rear generic hub on my modern bontrager wheels has the most woeful sealing around the freehub and right bearing cup, and it is always full of a brown sludge when I service it.
The main problem I have tho is knowing when to service them, because they're not spectacular hubs they never run particularly smooth no matter how well they are adjusted so it's hard to tell whether they are rough because of this or because of bad grease.
This is true, I do them reasonably regularly, it's more because I have a lot of bikes that's the issue.
I usually do them after winter. Although I was doing them more, but I've cut down on how often I was the bikes as I realised I might be washing the grease out, no matter how careful I was with just using the gentle spray setting on the hose. The rear generic hub on my modern bontrager wheels has the most woeful sealing around the freehub and right bearing cup, and it is always full of a brown sludge when I service it.
The main problem I have tho is knowing when to service them, because they're not spectacular hubs they never run particularly smooth no matter how well they are adjusted so it's hard to tell whether they are rough because of this or because of bad grease.
Old Ned
Old School Grand Master
Can't remember the last time I re-greased a hub apart from a Shimano one that after every winter needed new cones and bearing surfaces despite (allegedly!) being fitted with seals. My vintage Campag etc. just keep on going and I belong to the school of thought that says 'if it's working OK - then leave it alone!'. I've also heard of and use the technique of a teeny-weeny bit of play to take up the compression of a quick release.
BITD, there were some riders who would strip a hub down immediately before the start of a race, clean it up, re-assemble and then dribble a bit of oil into the cones. Minimal drag. I believe Chris Boardman may have done this - and he selected and measured every ball that he fitted into his hour record bike.
BITD, there were some riders who would strip a hub down immediately before the start of a race, clean it up, re-assemble and then dribble a bit of oil into the cones. Minimal drag. I believe Chris Boardman may have done this - and he selected and measured every ball that he fitted into his hour record bike.
I use a tip for getting the right amount of play when adjusting cups.
I put ring spanner, or similar, over one end of the axle and tighten up against the closed QR skewer with similar force to when in frame.
Then adjust the cone, on the opposite end to the ring spanner. It can be adjusted precisely whilst under the same load as when in the frame.
i had written this last night - but it was not submitted if appears out of synch
just saw same tip mentioned, however a ring spanner is probably easier than having the wheel hanging from one frame/fork end!
I put ring spanner, or similar, over one end of the axle and tighten up against the closed QR skewer with similar force to when in frame.
Then adjust the cone, on the opposite end to the ring spanner. It can be adjusted precisely whilst under the same load as when in the frame.
i had written this last night - but it was not submitted if appears out of synch
just saw same tip mentioned, however a ring spanner is probably easier than having the wheel hanging from one frame/fork end!
Carlton_gang
Dirt Disciple
tpjm191":1gqkc5fz said:
That's a brilliant idea, I will try that next time I need to service a wheel.
Carlton_gang":1o40riur said:
just to be clear i saw it in a book or somewhere.
Have a mental image of a pic in a book.
Just been through my Zinn, Park, Andrews, Sloane and even old Snowling books (and some others) and couldn't see reference to it!
someone must know where this tip comes from! - it is annoying me now
cromoman
Retro Guru
Re:
As I've got way too much time on my hands, I thought I'd measure the amount of movement of the cones when the quick release is done up.
My understanding is that it's the slight play in the threads that causes this to happen.
Using the setup in the photo, I measured 0.07 mm difference between the inside of the cones when the skewer is done up.
The thread is 26tpi, so this equates to about 1/14th of a turn.
As I've got way too much time on my hands, I thought I'd measure the amount of movement of the cones when the quick release is done up.
My understanding is that it's the slight play in the threads that causes this to happen.
Using the setup in the photo, I measured 0.07 mm difference between the inside of the cones when the skewer is done up.
The thread is 26tpi, so this equates to about 1/14th of a turn.
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