What's a good weight for a bike?
- Thread starter The History Man
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sunn
Dirt Disciple
What about the rider weight and height? That's where it gets complicated. We have to know your body fat percentage etc. And if you are short you can use smaller and lighter frame. Limb shortening is an option to manage leg length up to 5 cm. Nevertheless, it's probably easier and cheaper to leave some Mars bars at home 
.
My retro roadie Peugeot Aspin in size 58 cm weights about 11 kg with two bottle cages, a bell and Shimano 105 pedals plus a pump and a repair kit. It has a full Shimano 105 groupset from the early 90's. I usually spend whole days on top of this bike so it feels quite ideal for me.
.My retro roadie Peugeot Aspin in size 58 cm weights about 11 kg with two bottle cages, a bell and Shimano 105 pedals plus a pump and a repair kit. It has a full Shimano 105 groupset from the early 90's. I usually spend whole days on top of this bike so it feels quite ideal for me.
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This is not about weight shaving. Was just wondering about what a reasonable bike weighs. Did have a shave before yesterday's ride though.Mine is columbus tubing but I don't know which so was trying to get a rough dea.
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
My 12-speed 531 Raleigh is 9.2kg. The Bob Jackson I've got is fixed gear so is minus the added weight of the geartrain and weighs in at a svelte 7.9kg.
Choice of tyres and saddle play a major part in those last few grammes. The Flite Titanium I had on my Raleigh weighed less than 200g but all the replacements I've looked at are way more than that. I wasn't specifically looking for weight savings, but I saved about 300g when I changed from my old Hutchison Kevlar steel beaded tyres to new Michelin Pro 3 which are much lighter. Essentially, if I had my Brooks B17 and cheap tyres on the bike, it would weigh nearly a whole kilo more!
But that's nothing compared to the fat lardbucket glued on top of the saddle. That definitely needs slimming down somehow
Choice of tyres and saddle play a major part in those last few grammes. The Flite Titanium I had on my Raleigh weighed less than 200g but all the replacements I've looked at are way more than that. I wasn't specifically looking for weight savings, but I saved about 300g when I changed from my old Hutchison Kevlar steel beaded tyres to new Michelin Pro 3 which are much lighter. Essentially, if I had my Brooks B17 and cheap tyres on the bike, it would weigh nearly a whole kilo more!
But that's nothing compared to the fat lardbucket glued on top of the saddle. That definitely needs slimming down somehow
That's the way I look at it. I could spend hundreds of pounds to get lose 5kg from the bike weight, or I could spend less money on food and reduce the overall weight of the outfit by more than that. Option 2 isn't working out so well at the moment.
Does it make any difference whether you lose the weight from the rider or bike?
Does it make any difference whether you lose the weight from the rider or bike?
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There it is, use option one to spend the money to save the weight on the bike. Option two then comes naturally.
Win, win.
Except option 1 often gets deferred by way of accumulating more bikes, still option 2 is automatically selected.
Win, win.
Except option 1 often gets deferred by way of accumulating more bikes, still option 2 is automatically selected.
BobToo":38twtocd said:That's the way I look at it. I could spend hundreds of pounds to get lose 5kg from the bike weight, or I could spend less money on food and reduce the overall weight of the outfit by more than that. Option 2 isn't working out so well at the moment.
Does it make any difference whether you lose the weight from the rider or bike?
Agency_Scum
Retrobike Rider
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My lovely Rob Telfer is 22lbs fully built with pedals. Quite good for a 27" steel frame.
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How old is that? Nice. How tall are you then?
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