What to do when a bike looks like this.

[Spankyfart]

Did someone leave the backdoor open at the GT factory?

It's an 1990 Image Cycles Pro-Am Innovator DX, built by a British bloke called Keith Rylance.
I think he passed away not too long ago.

 

[PhillB]

That is a tough paint style to replicate, but not impossible. It depends whether you want it to look perfect from 6ft or close up! I've restored similarly complex styles, it takes hours and tbh final result varies. The other option is to leave the patina, orangey/brown and blue green are complimentary colours after all !! Either way, whether cleaned up or paint-repaired I tend to apply rust inhibitor inside the tubing and the clear coat the frame and forks with a 2part clear coat to seal up and help prevent against UV...

 

[Spankyfart]

Problem is, unfortunately it's not my size so anything I do is wasted money.
I do dig the frame and I'd assume someone would want to restore it with nice DX parts.
Cleaning prepping and 2k clear wouldn't cost too much, what do you use to "clean" the rusty parts.

 

[Imlach]

I'd just lightly sand the rusty spots and use rust converter, leave as is for a nice ratty look. Perhaps give the internals of the frame a dousing of fluid film or my favourite, corrosionx, build up and then happy days

 

[PhillB]

I tend to use Jenolite, but only because my Dad used that when I was a kid (on old cars mainly) there are other rust converters out there and Jenolite can stain existing clear coat if you are not careful.... +1 for CorrosionX too.

 

[Spankyfart]

Like I said I have Ranex, they have some videos on the joeptjoep.
When I get to it I'll use it on a small bit of frame, might also have a 1" XT headset to get it presentable.
Fork can be sanded and sprayed black easy enough.

@Imlach This stuff? I assume that's only for the innards.

 

[Imlach]

I tend to use Jenolite, but only because my Dad used that when I was a kid (on old cars mainly) there are other rust converters out there and Jenolite can stain existing clear coat if you are not careful.... +1 for CorrosionX too.

Unfortunately our selection of rust converters are pretty limited here, I just got whatever was on the shelf. I never thought about reaction with clear coats, I'll have to keep that in mind. Really liked how well CorrosionX coated compared to fluid film. Also does well in tests I've seen. Which version do you use?

 

[Imlach]

Like I said I have Ranex, they have some videos on the joeptjoep.
When I get to it I'll use it on a small bit of frame, might also have a 1" XT headset to get it presentable.
Fork can be sanded and sprayed black easy enough.

@Imlach This stuff? I assume that's only for the innards.

rust converter I've used is brushed on, I can't recommend a brand as we are very limited here. For inner protection I'd really recommend CorrosionX, that is a spray.

 

[PhillB]

Unfortunately our selection of rust converters are pretty limited here, I just got whatever was on the shelf. I never thought about reaction with clear coats, I'll have to keep that in mind. Really liked how well CorrosionX coated compared to fluid film. Also does well in tests I've seen. Which version do you use?

It was a blue and grey can IIRC... I have a can of Supatrol at the moment.

Re: staining, neither did I....but I got called away midway through applying on a frame, when I came back a hour or two later later the jenolite had stained the clearcoat (just near the rust) totally my fault and you are supposed to wipe it off after 15 mins or so!! It's fine if you follow the instructions

 

[Spankyfart]

It's fine if you follow the instructions

We're men, we're not supposed to read manuals or instructions.
We make them ourselves, and when wrong we stand by them.