What Retrobike "feature" do you avoid when looking for bikes?

[Hotwheels.]

A-Head

 

[ishaw]

One thing I forgot to mention but has been by others is press fit BBs. Not that it's a worry for retro frames. .

 

[bikeworkshop]

Threaded puts the fork shock on the fork threads - nothing lasts forever, and forks are expensive
Well cared for and never ridden loose or much offroad though, a decent threaded headset should outlast the rider.
But he or she won't have an alloy or carbon steerer.
So it depends what you want, as it so often does

PS @benjabbi a constantly loosening headset is a worn out headset - you can chose between always carrying headset Spanners or a new headset, which is lighter

 

[fearfactoryüberalles]

I think it's a bit luck of the draw, I'd agree on the most part, the proper tabbed lock washer helps in most cases as well. I have had a couple though that just refuse to stay tight. No matter how hard you lock the nuts together, even with added blue Locktite left to cure properly for a few days. 5 miles into the next ride, loose headset. I wonder if it's ridden while loose the rocking causes the threads to deform slightly then you're fighting a losing battle whatever you try?
On that particular bike I ended up throwing my toys out the pram and switched it out to Ahead, problem solved.

Any experience with "griplock" or top nuts assembled with tiny allen-head bolts horizontally, so they can grip (and slightly damage it of course) the steerer and thus secure the locknut in place? I know it's a futile attempt but may be a help against loosening.

re the topic:
alu, bonded tubes, anything plastic
1 1/4 headtube' frames
hidden cable routing
Magura and Magura-spec cable guides
70 or 73 mm BB housing
gaspipe special tubeset
steel rims, rusty spokes (if oem)
alu rigid forks

 

[bikeworkshop]

Any experience with "griplock" or top nuts assembled with tiny allen-head bolts horizontally, so they can grip (and slightly damage it of course) the steerer and thus secure the locknut in place? I know it's a futile attempt but may be a help against loosening.

Often a sign of a dead headset - it won't hurt, but probably won't fix it - the loosening forces are pretty high, it might lead to thread damage.

Modern tange headsetsstart at £15, and so far apart to last for ever.
You need to inspect the threads though, they might be damaged, and the loosening headset will be slowly killing them.

 

[just jacques]

Edit: this is a fit & forget, definitely not one to avoid.
Mori Epoch self adjusting headset as fitted to Araya Muddy Fox.

 

[BlackCat]

Super light inner tubes.. Air B and the like. Couldn’t even guarantee a single ride out of them.

Worse yet when paired with Mavic 230s, for the ultimate in flimsy wheels.

 

[7Speed]

1. Any fad feature that was not mud compatible or more marketing or pet project than helpful - under chainstay u-brakes, e-stay, most early 90s full sus etc.
2. Any dodgy Alu frame design Or cheap Alu - not a forgiving material for bad engineering.
3. Any stuck bb or seat posts - more about my limits this one.
4. Colorful anodizing that’s been overdone.
5. I will break any of the rules above for a bike that sings to my heart (like the HS Cannondale I bought - )

 

[bikeworkshop]

Bikes that are too cheap...
Or conversely, too expensive

 

[BerthaPog]

Adverts with “extremely rare”, apart from the six other adverts on eBay at the moment.