What puncture prevention do you use

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mattr":30wou9iq said:
kalex":30wou9iq said:
I wouldn't swap from my marathon plus purely because of the amount of thistles, thorns etc that are covered on my trails.
Really? Marathon plus are horrific tyres. The only two things they do well is last (and last, and last) and puncture protection.

By every other measure they are horrible!

Ok fair point i've already said but I wasn't after whether there good at handling or whatever as I'm pleased with what I bought them for. I don't like the feeling they give when on the small amount of road work I do but I have to put up with that.

People have mentioned tubeless and tbh i've never even had a bike or ridden one set up with these let alone looked at the cost.

Unless the tubeless tyre carcass is reinforced more than a std tyre ( which I should image it would to withhold air).

Without doing any research I should image you need special tubeless rims so all that would add up.
 
Re: Re:

kalex":22b76td6 said:
mattr":22b76td6 said:
kalex":22b76td6 said:
I wouldn't swap from my marathon plus purely because of the amount of thistles, thorns etc that are covered on my trails.
Really? Marathon plus are horrific tyres. The only two things they do well is last (and last, and last) and puncture protection.

By every other measure they are horrible!

Unless the tubeless tyre carcass is reinforced more than a std tyre ( which I should image it would to withhold air).

that really depends on the brand. maxxis tyres & bontrager standard tyres work fine as tubeless. standard schwalbe & continental leak through the sidewalls & require significantly more sealant to retain air
 
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I've had time this morning to do a little research and I just presumed I'd need a new wheel set and obviously tyres. But I didn't realise some rims can be converted till now. ( also pointed out by some in this thread ).
 
Schwalbe, conti and a few others also use a very greasy release agent on some models (depending on where they are made i suppose) so a good scrub with a scouring pad and some soapy water helps with the leaking side walls.

The release agent prevents the sealant from wetting the side walls properly, so the sealant never gets to do its job.
I managed to get a supersonic continental to go up fairly easily once I worked that out. And I've only seen thinner side walls on lightweight road tyres (you can actually see daylight through them) only needed an extra half scoop of sealant to get it to go.

Adding a table spoon of glitter apparently makes stans sealant even better........ (shaking properly had always worked well for me! )
 
mattr":64q6bffg said:
Adding a table spoon of glitter apparently makes stans sealant even better........ (shaking properly had always worked well for me! )

after years of using stans sealant I gave joes sealant a try & actually prefer the joes. for pinhole/thorn style punctures it seals instantly
 
CST do some good cheaper tyres with their Flat Fighter tech, I have a set of city slickers on a beater bike that gets locked up around a mall, not had a flat in 8 months or so.
Kenda's Ironcap Tech is pretty good too, like really good.
Love Marathon Plus tyres from a puncture protect(Mondials are supposed to handle even the toughest thorns) prospective, although I ran some Maxxis Aspens on that bike, changed back to the Marathons and was very surprised at how much heavier they were, I have gone for a set of Schwalbe Road Cruisers now, which I really like. I have the Land Cruisers on another bike and they are all good as well.
Schwalbe Land Cruiser's have a solid centre tread with knobs to the side, I like these tyres.
Schwalbe Marathon Mondial's as I said above are great, we set up some tourists with these on the back of their bikes, with Marathons on the front, they encountered some thorns in India that went straight through the fronts but not the rears.
Check these ones here out.
http://www.schwalbe.com/en/tour-reader/ ... uiser.html
http://www.schwalbe.com/en/tour-reader/ ... -plus.html
http://www.schwalbe.com/en/tour-reader/ ... ndial.html

Paul
 
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When I rode a lot of street bmx I used to double up with inner tubes, can't remeber ever fixing a puncture when I rode this set up, even rimming up on the trails never bit. I just cut the valve out and pushed it against the tyre and proper tube when fitting
 
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Tbh I didn't know much about tubeless mtb tyres and just presumed they were like car and motorbike ones ( being able to still get punctures ).

So even though a few of you suggested going tubeless I didn't fully understand. I have now looked in to this and they actually use a sealant thus preventing punctures.

I'm definitely going to go this way and i'll most likely use stans no tubes.

If I'd never have started this thread I would have always thought that tubeless mtb tyres were just as easy to puncture than normal tubed ones.
 
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