what lx chainset is this?

Gruff":1qzf4p81 said:
TedC":1qzf4p81 said:
If anybody as a suitable washer/spacer - ID ~35.6mm OD~42.5 (will check) and around 1mm thick let me know.

You could try classic mini ball joint shims, they come in many different thicknesses.
I think i have some in the shed, i'll try to dig them out tomorrow :)

If you could check the sizes hat would be most helpful. Ta.
 
Yes the 5-arm and 4-arm spider both fit these.
5-arm being conventional Compact Drive Rings (found on the LX and XT)
4-arm being conventional 4-arm ring 'aka modern rings' (spider found on STX-RC MC-40)

no idea on that thinning change, the back of my 5-arm looks like the top picture (old ring)
the 5-arm on the XTR (M95x) these year is thinner a bit more like the second picture.

Not sure what the 4-arm on the next generation (early 2000) groups looks like.


Tool for the lockring is a chainset lockring tool or TL-UN96 in shimano code.
Used for Middleburns as well, and for Octalink/ISIS bottom bracket that may have the outer notches.
Many versions and prices are 6 to ... quid look something like this
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=74219
74219.jpg
 
OwenJames":xmrr86tn said:
So, to the person who is restoring the bike; do you still have the original Rock Shox Indy XC?

I remember my Rockhopper came with them and they were seriously dreadful. No action at all, and felt like trying to shove a grit wedge into a mouse hole made of hate. They got replaced with Marzocchi Bomber Z2 (1997/8; the first ones with the nice Aluminium machined brace and beautifully tapered dropouts, before all that ugly BAM stuff came in...)

I realise it may have been a case of me getting a duff set of Rock Shox, so would be interested to read your experiences. Please do tell!

No I don't have an Indy C for the Build, instead I've got a 97 Jdy XC. Looks very similar but works much better.

My build won't be catalogue perfect, but I'm aim for a similar build with a few tweaks to suit my riding like a Club Roost go rast riser bar.

I guess I'm kind of building the bike I never had in 97
 
Hope someone can answer this.
I'm trying to remove the lock ring on an STX RC crank which is similar cranks being discussed here, it is a bit tight to say the least. I've assumed it's a normal right-hand thread, but is this correct?
Don't want to eff it up in case it's LH, but can't see why it should be.
 
both my LX and XT ones are R/H thread.
I put the tool in the vice & turned the crank.
 
I have the same crankset on my '99 East Peak (not original, I know).

To get the spider off, I had to put the tool in a vice, then turn the crank (with an extension bar over the end to get leverage).

It was very tight, but no loctite (which is what I'd expected to be honest).
 
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