what is this thing called 'geometry'?

Agree entirely Woz re the Eldridge Grade and lower Marin frames - the nickel Team Issues and the Ti were much more stretched - I seem to remember just over 23 inches on the 15.5 - or 59cms. I think I compared it to the Palisades Trail, which was nearly 2 in shorter in the TT. The Teams also were a much more lively tube set, which lacked the dead feel of the lower end Chromoly Marins.

Now that is good to know, something interesting for me to try one day. I assume you must measuring seat-tube center to center there?

18" Airborne (c-t actual seat-tube, c-c 15.25") virtual top-tube 22.99" so extremely close. I'm 1.73m but with monkey long arms which
I need to find some space to put somewhere. Getting longer stems to sort out reach is rarely the good answer, especially as I like to keep
to a 5 degree bar sweep for wrist comfort. As for in-line vs lay back posts, it really depends a lot what your favorite saddle was intended for.

If I was to go custom for a general purpose all day lively rider something like a 71 degree head-angle long-ish top-tube into a slacker 72
degree seat-tube with something like a 42.25" wheelbase and a touch lower bottom bracket around 11.5". An extra inch slapped on
the top of the head-tube height compared to retro, something like 5.5". For 26" wheels. Obviously.
 
It always surprises my biking buddies when I turn up on one of my Retro's for a summer ride. Usually get a bit of a ribbing, " You're not seriously going to f...in ride that are you?" , until the first climb that is, when I am usually 100m up the trail, particularly on my E-Stays. Their climbing ability is astounding. Of course I stick to the back on the downhills😁
Geometry is always a compromise if you want a bike to go uphill and downhill well. My modern bike is a 2016 Canyon Strive with the shapeshifter system, which for me is the best compromise for the uppy/ downy trails here in the UK. The ability to steepen the head angle by 1.5 degrees instantly, firm up the front fork and reduce the rear suspension travel was a game changer for me. Others haven't got on with the bike or thought it was a gimmick but I love having 2 different Geometry set ups in one bike.
I have a Strive, I found i never used the shapeshifter, it climbed well enough with the DH geometry (for me), so I've installed a mode-fixer, plus an angle-set and I really like it. Goes to show everyone is different, I guess.

For the retro bike I'm building (Orange Vit T) I couldn't find a geometry sheet. So I'm going to have a bit of trial and error with different stems and bars when I build it.
I would like to know how to compares to my modern bikes.
But it's mostly me trying to remember what I liked when I had a similar bike 25 years ago!
 
A lot of good stuff in here to read through more thoroughly already.

But just stopping in to say that being a Phoenix grail-chaser, means that the more I look, research, and salivate over those frames, the more interested I get in geometry.

Mainly:

Can a grown man of 6ft pull off a 12" bike frame if that's the only size that ever becomes available!?

(Obviously I know the answer here, but you get my point).

The Phoenix is a bike that I've read a lot of very positive ride reports on, especially in so much as it feels like a very modern bike for it's age. And I believe that is largely due to its geometry. And that was really Charlie's jam, right? Well, that and brakes. Fiddly, strange, powerful, steam-punk-looking brakes!

Unfortunately for this new addiction of mine, I gave about as much attention to my maths classes as I did my engineer father trying to teach me stuff from beneath the chases of an old car, when I just wanted to go ride my bike and have him fix it for me later when I broke it.

Little shit bag.
 
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Some comments above about the rider adapting to the bike.

Sometime ago I road an early race day Pace RC something or other around Thetford* and Norfolk area. Geometry and
especially the AL material choice meant I was battered. These bikes were indeed race day and the rider had to put
up with discomfort for the race duration at the expensive of gaining speed and leg power transfer to the rear wheel.

To think you could adapt to such a bike for say a 200 km off road epic would require an awful amount of training and
an unnecessary amount of going through the pain barrier. For short rides, sure, you can put up with it. You can
put up with practically any ill fitting bike for a short duration, and of course off-road you are moving around so won't
be in a bad position for too long either.

IMHO, it's when you start to have various aches and pains, and riding develops into more time in the saddle (actually pedaling)
that a good understanding of geometry and position becomes very beneficial - make the bike work 100% for you, I can't
see it any other way to be honest.

Adding suspension in the mix, and bombing down rock gardens is something very different and specific that's already mentioned
with all sorts of flavours, lovers and haters. Just what the bike industry thrives on. I suppose around the late-90s it all got
pretty well nailed (normalised even?) concerning geometry and the intended riding.

Interestingly, if you look at the very very early road bikes when there were crap unsurfaced roads, rider comfort is
taken into account in the geometry with slack angles and highly raked forks. We are also talking skinny flexy tubes everywhere.

Things invariably stiffened up with the quest for speed and angles got steeper and other "must have" bits-n-pieces, but
around the 90s (at a guess) a better understanding of the negative effects of long duration rider discomfort gained interest
and AL frames became practically worthless overnight with more rider centric carbon frame designs.

* ..... I know. Not the most hardcore. :LOL:
 
Some comments above about the rider adapting to the bike.

Sometime ago I road an early race day Pace RC something or other around Thetford* and Norfolk area. Geometry and
especially the AL material choice meant I was battered. These bikes were indeed race day and the rider had to put
up with discomfort for the race duration at the expensive of gaining speed and leg power transfer to the rear wheel.

To think you could adapt to such a bike for say a 200 km off road epic would require an awful amount of training and
an unnecessary amount of going through the pain barrier. For short rides, sure, you can put up with it. You can
put up with practically any ill fitting bike for a short duration, and of course off-road you are moving around so won't
be in a bad position for too long either.

IMHO, it's when you start to have various aches and pains, and riding develops into more time in the saddle (actually pedaling)
that a good understanding of geometry and position becomes very beneficial - make the bike work 100% for you, I can't
see it any other way to be honest.

Adding suspension in the mix, and bombing down rock gardens is something very different and specific that's already mentioned
with all sorts of flavours, lovers and haters. Just what the bike industry thrives on. I suppose around the late-90s it all got
pretty well nailed (normalised even?) concerning geometry and the intended riding.

Interestingly, if you look at the very very early road bikes when there were crap unsurfaced roads, rider comfort is
taken into account in the geometry with slack angles and highly raked forks. We are also talking skinny flexy tubes everywhere.

Things invariably stiffened up with the quest for speed and angles got steeper and other "must have" bits-n-pieces, but
around the 90s (at a guess) a better understanding of the negative effects of long duration rider discomfort gained interest
and AL frames became practically worthless overnight with more rider centric carbon frame designs.

* ..... I know. Not the most hardcore. :LOL:

I think frame material also plays an important part in the all round ability of a bike, Alu frames as you point out are or were ideal for racing purposes, stiff with direct power transfer, not ideal for longer stints in the saddle, or even stood up for that matter, unless you didn't suffer from arm pump and could hold on.

My comment about adapting was more about body position in regards to descending and climbing to compensate for an all-rounder.
 
It's come up before, but a significant geometry design attribute is due to the USA CPSC bicycle regulations. I can't remember
the year the requirement was introduced, but early ATB and MTB had to comply with it to become popular.

"(4) Bicycles without toe clips must have pedals that are at least 3 ½ inches from the front tire or fender when the front tire is turned in any direction."

https://www.cpsc.gov/Business--Manu...ation/Business-Guidance/Bicycle-Requirements/
EDIT: Just to add, this essentially set a geometry framework with a sacred minimum for the "front wheelbase" for frames of all sizes, and
probably with a margin for longer crank lengths too for production bikes sold in the USA.
 
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