What is the maximum tooth sprocket you could fit on the back using a Deore DX rear derailleur?

As thumbies were my preference even before experiencing this indexing quagmire it just makes sense and now I have good justification to use them!

Also good to get confirmation this is a common issue with more experienced tinkerers.
Always a trade off. Certain tooth combinations will also be less than ideal in the high end as you run things that weren't meant to go together. But yeah, friction is the ideal solution to compatibility issues. I also feel that for front shifting, friction is infinitely nicer than index.
 
Always a trade off. Certain tooth combinations will also be less than ideal in the high end as you run things that weren't meant to go together. But yeah, friction is the ideal solution to compatibility issues. I also feel that for front shifting, friction is infinitely nicer than index.
Interesting why do you prefer friction on front too? I was wondering about saving some money and getting only the right as the trigger works fine for the front but may as well get both for 'completeness'. What is your reasoning for preferring for front?
 
Interesting why do you prefer friction on front too? I was wondering about saving some money and getting only the right as the trigger works fine for the front but may as well get both for 'completeness'. What is your reasoning for preferring for front?
Easy to trim to have it run perfectly quiet, seems better for running out of spec combinations (handles big jumps better) and when I've run 3x chainsets in 2x configuration, friction is the more versatile option.
 
Easy to trim to have it run perfectly quiet, seems better for running out of spec combinations (handles big jumps better) and when I've run 3x chainsets in 2x configuration, friction is the more versatile option.
Sorry another question why is it more versatile? I am doing exactly that now, 3x down to 2x so it is also relevant to me. Is it easier to stop it from jumping over the ring as that is happening to me currently although I haven't really tried hard yet to fine tune the limit stop?
 
Sorry another question why is it more versatile? I am doing exactly that now, 3x down to 2x so it is also relevant to me. Is it easier to stop it from jumping over the ring as that is happening to me currently although I haven't really tried hard yet to fine tune the limit stop?
Yep, I'm in full control of the jump. I have also had an easier time shifting loaded using friction, which is where the front typically suffer normally. It also is the more versatile option if you're a disorganised prat like me who've assembled multi ring setups with wrong sized spacers between rings, where indexed didn't want to play ball

It neatly obfuscates my own incompetency and laziness
 
Yep, I'm in full control of the jump. I have also had an easier time shifting loaded using friction, which is where the front typically suffer normally. It also is the more versatile option if you're a disorganised prat like me who've assembled multi ring setups with wrong sized spacers between rings, where indexed didn't want to play ball

It neatly obfuscates my own incompetency and laziness
Hah it reminds me of when I first took off the third ring and bolted them back and suddenly thought the shifting felt close together and I had put the 2nd ring on the wrong way around or something like that. Quickly saw the error though due to mad shifting change.
 
I have read that using hangers increases wear

its more putting your drive train under stress in general, than a hanger specifically - all of this discussion is about doing essentially that
if you wanna push the envelope from 'normal' design specs, then some trade offs are to be expected
 
Note also that sticky cables are best solved with new OUTERs. In time the cable will saw its way into the outer around bends, causing sticking.
 
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Easy to trim to have it run perfectly quiet, seems better for running out of spec combinations (handles big jumps better) and when I've run 3x chainsets in 2x configuration, friction is the more versatile option.
To be fair, it's index for a dual setup anyway, top or bottom.
 
Oh ffs!!!

I am now in a world more trouble.

I was following the park tool article for setting the H-screw.

I got it to what seemed correct and was going through the indexing process as per the guidance.

I got everything what seemed close and as I went to take it for a ride suddenly the derailleur kept catching on itself as I pedaled.

I then went back to base to take a closer look and it looks like the derailleur has now packed in somehow! I thought the cage might have gotten bent somehow. Maybe too much tension when doing the H-screw exercise? Really did not have time to give it proper inspection in the last spurt of light.

When pedaling the bottom jockey wheel will not take up the chain.

I looked at the hanger and I am not able to tell really if it is that. I don't see how that could bend in that pedestrian process I was just doing. I didn't drop it or 'owt.

It was going dark and had to pack everything away at peak frustration not having got to the bottom of what has happened, having cocked it up farther than ever before and the light dwindling.
 
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