What is light for a retro MTB ??

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There is no harm in swapping out stuff that is or, can be heavy.

Say tyres, cranks, saddle... but a bike can be too light y'know. In a way that's hard to explain, the alu and ti can punish your ass, wrists etc...

I suppose we all have parameters and zones that 'do it' for us.
I once did the extreme rally car strip out thing thing but the bike lost soul.

My light and precious bike below, the weight? Dunno. Nice and light but has a great balance and stability. 1995 team. Even sporting a USE shockpost.
 

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That 95 Team is uber sweet my friend. That would have been my other choice had the ti not come up first.

I imagine it’s sub 10kg. Lovely condition. I liked the Marin decals on the forks from back then but took a beating if you’re not careful.

Thanks for posting.
 
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All this got me thinking about the weight of my fleet, which is as follows, but I never set about building any of them with low weight in mind;

1990 Kona Explosif (fully rigid, steel) = 27.24lbs / 12.36kgs
1990 Pace RC-100 (fully rigid, Ali frame, steel forks) = 24.2lbs / 10.98kgs
1990 Muddyfox Adventurer (fully rigid, steel) = 29.02lbs / 13.16kgs
1991 Proflex 550 (semi-suspension, steel) = 28.7lbs / 13.02kgs
1992 Marin Indian Fire Trail (fully rigid, Ali frame, steel forks) = 21.36lbs / 9.69kgs
1992 Trek 8000 (fully rigid, Ali)= 24.72lbs / 11.21kgs
1993 KHS Montana Team (fully rigid, steel) = 23.44lbs / 10.63kgs
or with Pace RC-35s = 25.4lbs / 11.5kgs
1993 Merlin Titanium (fully rigid, Ti frame, steel forks) = 22.2lbs / 10.07kgs
1993 Cadex CFM-3 (fully rigid, bonded carbon/steel frame, steel forks) = 24.4lbs / 11.07kgs
1994 Specialized Stumpjumper FS (front suspension, steel) = 27.02lbs / 12.26kgs
1995 Specialized Stumpjumper (fully rigid, steel) = 24.6lbs / 11.16kgs

All in c.17” frame sizes, and mostly stock builds. Marin steals the show weight wise.
 
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That’s a sweet list of bikes there; some questions ;

Does the aluminium of the IFT make the difference. I was always of the opinion that titanium was lighter so surprised that the Merlin isn’t taking the prize ? Is there a major difference on the rest of the bike. ?

What do you do with 11 bikes ? Do you think you might have a few too many ?
 
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Matttymm":he5dk6rd said:
That’s a sweet list of bikes there; some questions ;

Does the aluminium of the IFT make the difference. I was always of the opinion that titanium was lighter so surprised that the Merlin isn’t taking the prize ? Is there a major difference on the rest of the bike. ?

What do you do with 11 bikes ? Do you think you might have a few too many ?

Like your Marin, my Merlin is full XTR, whilst my Marin IFT is more of a boutique build. You can click on them in my signature to see the builds for yourself.

Is 11 too many? :shock: How rude!
There are a few more.. ;)
 
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Love the Merlin. What do you do if you fancy taking it for a ride ? Do you have to cut it down!?

That’s the strangest and coolest thing keeping it on the wall.
 
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The IFT is beautiful too.

Titanium carbon saddle - that’s where I’m losing it. !!!

;-)
 
In the late 90's I had my Cannondale Super V (original one) down to just under 24 lbs. Biggest weight saving was on the wheels running Air B inner tubes, IRC Geo Claw tyres on Campag Stheno rims. Rest of the spec was XTR, hope hubs & bottom bracket. XT thumbshifters, SS5 brake levers, Onza HO pedals etc....

I haven't weighed my current bikes but I'd guess at around 22lbs or less for the Klein and Raleigh Decade.
 
Rampage":3v5e6anc said:
My Raleigh Torus was just under 19lb. It was all over the place on rocky downhills, it took a lot of effort to control it.
It is now around 22lb and is easier to control.
My Torus in full "rigid race spec" for smooth, fast courses was around 19lbs, light (and skinny) tyres and wheels, double chainset, D-A cassette and (sometimes) rear mech as well, Pace RC130 bars, triple butted forks, nice light welded Ti stem and a USE post, Ti bottom bracket (in the square taper days), rest of it was XTR or "other boutique" stuff, it was ok for what it was made for.
Rocky courses it got bigger tyres, stronger wheels, more gears and suspension.
About 21lbs. That would have been (mostly) 96/97 ish.

Rampage":3v5e6anc said:
If you want to get it under 20lb from 24lb you’ll probably need to change most of the parts to lose 4lb. It’s not really worth it.
Yeah, usually better to start light, then add durability.
 
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24lbs is a decent light weight for a 90's mtb, it's xc race bike sort of weight.
It's a case of diminishing returns getting it lighter from there, and in all honesty probably not worth it if it's a bike you ride hard.
 
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