welding disc brake mounts... thoughts and advice

parkerfresh

Retro Newbie
Hi, I'm new to the forum. I am thinking of getting a retro steel hardtail, removing the canti lugs and welding on a disc mount, brace (to help with additional braking forces) and possibly remove and relocate cable guides.

I know a lot of you would think its a crime to do this to a classic frame, but I can't be without discs!

This begs the question "why not buy a modern frame"... Well I can't afford £500 for a cotic, fancy a little project and would quite like to have a unique bike.

So, do any of you know of anyone that's done this? Frames to avoid due to weakness or lack of clearance for the rotor?

I'm looking at maybe getting a kona cinder cone/lava dome, mid 90s spesh rockhopper or something similar, just want a nice simple frame that can handle a bit of singletrack.

Any thoughts?
 
Re:

Welcome to the forum.

I had something like this done.

I have a 1992 Dave Lloyd Cats Wiskas which was originally built to take the early mechanical Hope disk brakes. When the frame came to me it needed new chain stays, and as original Hope brakes are pretty hard to come by I asked Argos Racing, who were doing the other work, to change the disk mounts for a more modern version.

The whole arrangement works well and I am happy with the results both aesthetically and in effectiveness.

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Thanks Neil, that looks really clean... I've been looking on the net for a builder that could do the mods I'm after and 'Argos' seem to pop up quite a bit, I think it would be an easy job for most welders, but would rather go via a frame builder.

How much did the work cost if you don't mind me asking... I know you had new stays but did they give a separate quote for the disc mount work? I'm thinking of hanging on until I get a nice kilauea or explosif, strip lugs and paint, send to Argos, then off to powder coat.

If its more than £150 including shipping, I might have to re-think as I'm guessing a frame will cost that plus another £50 for powdercoat, it all ads up, plus I've got a little one due in 5 weeks (that's why I need a bike project, can't go gallivanting around when nappies need changing) so money is tighter than ever.

Anyway, thanks for the info... I really appreciate it and need all the help, advice and info I can get at this point!
 
I didn't have the work done, another member on here commissioned bob jacksons to do the work, but it's fantastic, old school geometry with modern stopping power.
It gets more use than any other bike I own.
IMO as long as you cherry pick modern components that fit with the retro theme you'll end up with a great toy. I've swapped and changed several parts since the initial build til I've ended up with something I feel is right for me.
I'm sure plenty of people don't like it, but they don't have to ride it. ;)

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Given most of us were riding through the transisional periods between canti's to V brakes and V's or rim hydro to discs.
Given that in this transition period for discs the manafacturers had to come up with new solutions to new problems, none of which involved welding anything :?

Voila :D The frame mount(On '97 Santa cruz Tazmon) and hope bolt on disc brake frame converter(On '99 Orange Clockwork)
 

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Re:

It's hard to break the price down, although I do have the invoice somewhere, but I would estimate it was around £40 to £50, as it was part of a lot of work, including a full respray.

Nice skewers on that Kona Bren; I have a couple of pairs of those.
 
Depending on the frame, it might not be an easy job for a welder.
It might be brazed, it might be really thin gauge tubing, he might not have the right jigs to keep the frame in alignment. (It could well end up banana shaped!)

I'd not even entertain getting "any welder" to have ago at a frame, unless it was a scrapper otherwise or they've had lots of practice with similar stuff. (So not someone who welds up car bodies every now and again!)
 
mechanical_vandal":2rqwaufu said:
Isn't rotor clearance going to be the biggest issue here?
That's a good point.

I had to supply a wheel with the disc fitted and a working calliper and lever to Argos, but as I am using mechanical callipers, that was pretty easy to do.
 
Re:

I bought my 93 Vit T having had the same done - you can see it in my Sig.

I personally would have left the brake bosses and seat stay bridge on but horses for courses.

Hope C2's were around enough in the 90's to count as retro and they are still damn good stoppers.
 

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