Weight Watching - Worthwhile Worrying?

What's wrong with that, also if he drills large holes on either side you can stick your lock through it (like syncros)

Chamfer the edges so inserting is a bit easier and you have the correct length seatpost.

Not as if the extra length is clamped anyway and just gives a greater area for damp and dirt to collect in and cause trouble.
It's sensible and easy.


Why do manufacturers drill cassette rings or make hollow pins in chains ?
 
:LOL: How did the lock get there with you? I bet it weighs more than the 26g. It all just seems a little silly for leisure/pleasure riding. Have you read the whole thread? It was an open question initially.
 
Just under 30 in current config. Ditched saddle bag. Bottle + toolkit in lightweight rucsac. :LOL:

So. I weigh more bike weighs less. Go figure. (Apologies for the Americanism)
 
The History Man":3gzybrs9 said:
:idea: Been browsing and reading discussions re bike weight and other related issues. Whle out with the dogs today have been thinking. My red alloy azonic 2 1/2 inch riser bars came today and are very light. (Needed to raise bar height as 6'3")see bike as below)) the question is this: why do we worry so much about weight of bike, components, tyres etc when once the thing is built and before we ride off on it, we stick on a half kilo water bottle and a bike bag or rucsac or both.

Bearing in mind I weigh 18st plus, does an extra kilo or two of bike really matter at my level of riding and that of most normal people who ride for fitness/leisure. Surely the lighter the bike the further you have to ride for the same calorific value and fitness benefit?

So, when riding should I be in flip flops and a thong or a deep sea diver's suit? (Metaphorically speaking) and does it matter? :?: or are aesthetics more important?
My pet theory is that getting the lightest possible bike is a dead loss for most people as their own weight is likely to be "Sub-optimal" [STEP AWAY FROM THE PORK PIE AND PUT YOUR HANDS IN THE AIR, FAT BOY! Just in case you weren't sure what I meant by Sub-optimal], so spending £60 on a carbon or titanium widget to save 2oz is rarely a good investment. There are cheaper ways to shed 2oz weight from the total rider+bike+baggage combination. However for certain frames I think you can be a bit too light for off road riding. People marvel about the springy ness of Tange Prestige frames, I even saw someone of more "Stature" than me flex his frame just by leaning against it however I find my Stump jumper rigid and unyielding. I can do Stockdale Lane far faster, and comfier, on my plain Tange Marin Muirwoods than I can on the Stumpy. I think I'm not heavy enough to activate the springyness.
 
Since cycling (feb) lost a stone! Try shaving that off your bike! (17st2 from over 1:cool: I rest my case. Probably more efficient too.
 
My weight while cycling has ranged from 85-115kg and everywhere in between. I can notice a kilogram off the bike a lot more than a kilogram off the body.

Build your bikes only as heavy as they need to be.
 
Have to agree with that. I spent a lot of my younger days hefting bikes up and down hills and, when in the city, stairs. Nowadays it is in and out of vehicles more than anything else, and a couple of kilos here and there makes a difference. Flicking bikes around, more relevant to hardtails, is much easier with a lighter bike.

Rich is completely right about the rider often needing some weight to them to 'activate' a frame. I am riding an 853 Dragon right now and finding it works really well with sixteen stone on it. I have put bouncy things on the front now and it is just about the perfect set up for me going back from full suss.
 
Well what do you know. Saw this in today's Sunday Times Colour Supplement. :mrgreen:

Would have it as my avatar but love the Grandstand TV video game of my youth.
 

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