Weight-saving... Best value for money?

[Jerry Thurston]

For fun I just weighed my Bontrager front wheel set up, ready to ride, spindle/skewer/tyre and tube it comes in at 1750g (about 3.75 lbs).


My frame is a slightly porky (by light-weight standards) 5 lbs
I went for a hollow BB spindle
The Bontrager rims
A decent (ish) cassette XT as opposed to really nasty all steel jobbie
Changing any spacers that are steel to alloy
A few alloy fasteners here and there.

Frankly, if the bike comes in at between 23 to 25 lbs I'll be thrilled.

Weight is relative.
I'm from an automotive back-ground where weight savings can be measured in multiple kilos, changing from steel wire wheels to alloy rim wire wheels on a historic race-car saved nearly 5kg per wheel!

My research tells me that rotating mass can be classed as x2. Every oz from the wheels counts double on the frame (or in most of my cases chassis)

 

[kaiser]

Doesn't all need to be big bucks like I said. Heres my first attempt

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... ght+weenie

and my taking too long second attempt

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... lein+pulse

 

[tintin40]

Tyres are probably the quickest way of sheding some weight it's suprising how much some can weigh.

Agree and increase the number of punctures (i found)

 

[silverclaws]

Bitd the thing was go around with a magnet and what it sticks to is a candidate for swapping out with alloy, but as others have said where you will feel the weight loss the most is wheels and tyres, even just tyres and tubes in some cases. My lightest tyres are aramid folders but they have evil rolling resistance, so they are not on the bike,so running pretty reasonable Marin Quake's at the moment and they are not bad in terms of weight and action. But for pedalling the rotating mass is the place you will feel it most but if you do a lot of carrying or running carrying the thing, then lose weight anywhere you can and often low end alloy tektro and all that is actually pretty good in terms of weight and function.

As to getting silly, I need my bar ends that's why they are there- finger protection from trees and everything else that is on the bike that adds weight is there for a reason, so the only alternative is, is get fitter and with that my local hill two weeks ago I could not scale it at all this week I can, I am getting fitter and guess what, the bike feels lighter and more responsive

 

[Chopper the ex Copper]

Eat less, exercise more. It's free, and the weight saving us where it's most needed.

 

[gtRTSdh]

Alloy nipples are a great saving and can be replaced one at a time.

Shifter bolts, mech cable clamp bolts, jockey bolts, swap for ally, top cap and bolt is an easy one to go light weight.

Light weight water bottle cages and bottles are not dear or use a camel back and remove the weight from the bike entirely!

Air suspension forks with an ally steerer does wonders compared with steel springs and steel steerer.

KCNC do very light seat post clamps and V-brake levers!

 

[doctor-bond]

Agree that tyres tubes and wheels are probably the best value/greatest effect.

But it might be worth thinking about how light you need, and why. As a few other chaps have stated, super light doesn't always mean nice to ride.

I've been trying to lighten my bikes since 1989 and have come to the conclusion that:

a: it is worth it: light bikes are better to ride and it's fun building them
b: mountain bikes that are too light handle poorly
c: it doesn't have to be pricey.

I'd say that about 22 lb is light enough to feel fast, be cheap and reliable. Anything below 25 lb is good to ride. That means you can run a fairly basic frame with some mass to it that will be cheap, comfortable and predictable, and still have plenty of choices for weight saving.

Getting rid of gears is a good approach. Changing gear is a waste of mental and physical energy. How many do you really need? I prefer three: one for up, one for down, one for everything else. That means you don't need a rear cassette, derailleur, shifter or cable.

Ti tit bits are easy to add as and when you have the cash or they come along: ti stem quill bolts (what is an ahead stem?) and QRs are good value.

Pedals. 250 g sealed-bearing flat pedals can be had new for under 15 notes. In the summer wear Crocs (c. 250g a pair sz 10), in the winter, 30 quid fell shoes: you can also run in them if you are a crazy masochist. SPD is an unnecessary distraction. Utterly pointless.

Light square taper BBs are horribly expensive now, but getting one is a good commitment to your fave ride and the sheer expense will create a disproportionately positive mental gain.

As for the old chestnut - 'lose a pound or two from around your waist' first: bunkum. It's all about unsprung weight: a gram off the bike is worth a pound off the waist.

 

[sylus]

Over the years I've been cycling I've tried everything from carbon to titanium, alloy and steel and spent thousands trying to find the biggest weight saving only to find the most profitable weight saving is for free...having a dump

 

[gtRTSdh]

Over the years I've been cycling I've tried everything from carbon to titanium, alloy and steel and spent thousands trying to find the biggest weight saving only to find the most profitable weight saving is for free...having a dump

LOL, I was going to write that but managed to hold it in (pun intended)

 

[Neil]

As for the old chestnut - 'lose a pound or two from around your waist' first: bunkum. It's all about unsprung weight: a gram off the bike is worth a pound off the waist.

I remain unconvinced it's bunkum. It's not all about unsprung mass. Both sprung and unsprung mass still need to be propelled. And for many, here, the only spring, um, ness (of any note) is in the tyres. The real flaw in the debate is the presumption that either approach is mutually exclusive. Surely if you're willing to go to the effort and expense of lightweight kit, it's worth a bit of effort in lightening yourself.