Wanted Want bike - Rigid frame main requirement, looking to pay 80-120 + postage

I just posted this DB Axis for sale - its your size, rigid and lightweight - will climb well, it has plenty of scope to be kitted out however you like https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/nice-lightweight-diamond-back-axis-1994.484206/
Ohh just reading the specs and 1x8 gives me a lot of options for upgrades eh in the contemporary direction? What is current tooth lowest? What is the max sprocket low I could fit on current derailleur?

With the current BB what is that? Is it different to square taper meaning I would need to replace it to get a classic Sugino Impel on there? As such that means I would be rather committed to the 1x build then :). Not necessarily a dealbreaker but just have to get my head around it as I had been thinking 2x, 3x. I suppose there are 2x options for that new looking BB?
 
Ohh just reading the specs and 1x8 gives me a lot of options for upgrades eh in the contemporary direction? What is current tooth lowest? What is the max sprocket low I could fit on current derailleur?

With the current BB what is that? Is it different to square taper meaning I would need to replace it to get a classic Sugino Impel on there? As such that means I would be rather committed to the 1x build then :). Not necessarily a dealbreaker but just have to get my head around it as I had been thinking 2x, 3x. I suppose there are 2x options for that new looking BB?
the hollowtech BB has just been fitted because I wanted to use up the Shimano ZEE chainset I had sitting in a box , you could equally fit a square taper BB ( its a standard 68mm BB shell) and then fit whatever cranks and chainrings you desire. There is cable routing for a front mech of course but I would say that a 1x drivetrain is a lot lighter than 2x or 3x and you can always go for a wide range rear cassette. Narrow wide chainring + rear mech with clutch means that you wont be losing the chain over bumpy terrain as well. I have converted a dozen or so vintage MTBs to 1x drivetrain and I would say the lack of chain slap and reduced weight are a game changer and I never yet ran out of gears - rear cassettes can be had with up to 11x50 if you have the rear mech to support it.
 
the hollowtech BB has just been fitted because I wanted to use up the Shimano ZEE chainset I had sitting in a box , you could equally fit a square taper BB ( its a standard 68mm BB shell) and then fit whatever cranks and chainrings you desire. There is cable routing for a front mech of course but I would say that a 1x drivetrain is a lot lighter than 2x or 3x and you can always go for a wide range rear cassette. Narrow wide chainring + rear mech with clutch means that you wont be losing the chain over bumpy terrain as well. I have converted a dozen or so vintage MTBs to 1x drivetrain and I would say the lack of chain slap and reduced weight are a game changer and I never yet ran out of gears - rear cassettes can be had with up to 11x50 if you have the rear mech to support it.
Yes as to the last sentence what is the max dinner plate that the current derailleur would support (and what is max tooth currently)? If it could handle it I would be looking to put something like this on there: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cassettes/microshift-acolyte-csh083-8-speed-cassette-1246t/


What is current bcd/tooth of the current front cog? I could buy a smaller one of that if need right if I don't want to get all the gubbins involved with the 2x. I never spin out that I can recall even on 28 smallest on my current bike. I just coast and wait to slow down!

I have never tried 1x so have to get my head around them. As you can see from this thread: https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads...-a-modern-drivetrain-on-a-vintage-mtb.484041/

I had this idea originally before people steered me away from it saying it would be too convoluted and better to go with 3x granny. However this bike of yours has fallen in my lap offering exactly what I was wanting to do on that original post!

Not bothered about purported chain retention benefits of 1x. Never found that an issue on 3x and besides looking for mainly road, but hilly, riding and light off-road.
 
Yes as to the last sentence what is the max dinner plate that the current derailleur would support? If it could handle it I would be looking to put something like this on there: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cassettes/microshift-acolyte-csh083-8-speed-cassette-1246t/

What is current bcd/tooth of the current front cog? I could buy a smaller one of that if need right if I don't want to get all the gubbins involved with the 2x. I never spin out that I can recall even on 28 smallest on my current bike. I just coast and wait to slow down!

I have never tried 1x so have to get my head around them. As you can see from this thread: https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads...-a-modern-drivetrain-on-a-vintage-mtb.484041/

I had this idea originally before people steered me away from it saying it would be too convoluted and better to go with 3x granny. However this bike of yours has fallen in my lap offering exactly what I was wanting to do on that original post!

Not bothered about purported chain retention benefits of 1x. Never found that an issue on 3x and besides looking for mainly road, but hilly, riding and light off-road.
Microshift acolyte will fit aok , I have used them before - note that the acolyte freewheel and shifter have unique sprocket spacing/cable pull - so you need to pair them up with the acolyte rear mech - unlike the Microshift advent which is shimano backwards compatible. Kids Racing do the keenest pricing on microshift stuff but you do need to match shifter and rear mech if interested in acolyte ( designed for small hands and has extra lightweight shifting). I have used an LX mega drive 44T front ring but any narrow wide of 38 or larger works nicely in my experience. ZEE cranks are 104 BCD 4 bolt pattern btw.
 
Microshift acolyte will fit aok , I have used them before - note that the acolyte freewheel and shifter have unique sprocket spacing/cable pull - so you need to pair them up with the acolyte rear mech - unlike the Microshift advent which is shimano backwards compatible. Kids Racing do the keenest pricing on microshift stuff but you do need to match shifter and rear mech if interested in acolyte ( designed for small hands and has extra lightweight shifting). I have used an LX mega drive 44T front ring but any narrow wide of 38 or larger works nicely in my experience. ZEE cranks are 104 BCD 4 bolt pattern btw.
So acolyte would require new shifter?

Ok well I am not set on that one. I can just swap out for shimano cues is that ok?

https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Shimano-CUES-CS-LG300-9-speed-Cassette_263112.htm
Price seems the same anyway, and even cheaper than the microshift yet still same max tooth sprocket.
 
So acolyte would require new shifter?

Ok well I am not set on that one. I can just swap out for shimano cues is that ok?

https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Shimano-CUES-CS-LG300-9-speed-Cassette_263112.htm
Price seems the same anyway, and even cheaper than the microshift yet still same max tooth sprocket.
not sure that modern CUES fits retro freehub - I would stick with something like this if you are looking to replace https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cassettes/sunrace-csm680-8ay-8-speed-cassette-1142t/ - check the total freehub width and also the pattern of the splines to ensure compatibility with the freehub body you are mounting it to. There are 2 x standard freehub widths - if in doubt check online guides and measure first - note that cassettes for latest 10, 11 speed freehubs don't fit onto 35 mm width HG hubs - as they are designed for wider 37mm freehub - best to measure up before you invest IMHO
 
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