Very confused about riding position(s) - mtb vs road

Think I've skimmed this before (probably where i stole the bit about recumbents from). To be fair Mr Bontrager does know a bit about bikes although it's interesting to see his figures still place peak power perpendicular to ground and not 90 deg to the seat tube (even though he's already stated that the whole system can be rotated about the BB).
 
I rate Mr Bontrager's view one of the best in terms of bike fit. There has been so much written, and as he suggests so much bullshit on the subject. The weak part in the article is trying to apply it all in a sensible approach with a bike you've already got and "believe" it is the right size for you - a kind of dummies guide and check point list - with practicality in mind, rather than the "perfect symbiose" between rider and bike which he was in the business for.

It's strange too reading these debates about "comfort" vs "racing". Sadly, I think the marketing men have managed to cash in and play on peoples minds. Let's suppose this:
- you can't expect a pro-racer to sit 10hrs on a bike without some level of comfort. To dismiss racing positions as "uncomfortable" is being pretty short sighted; instead it's better to observe them and look how well they seem balanced on the bike, and in control of it.
- most of us can't even sit on a wooden chair or sofa in a fixed position without fidgeting or moving around after and hour or so.

These two points show It's obvious then, comfort is not something entirely purchased, but it is something researched, optimised, and above all takes time and effort to simply be accustomed to physically sitting on a bike. Why a newbie or recreation rider expects off-the-shelf complete comfort on a bike (sold as such) is absolutely beyond me.
 
. . .

Why a newbie or recreation rider expects off-the-shelf complete comfort on a bike (sold as such) is absolutely beyond me.
Because the newbie doesn't know any better and 'This is going to hurt' isn't a great sales pitch. That would be my guess.
 
Well, not forgetting the OP in all of this. I would suggest a DIY bike fit in the traditional manner as a start point.

Get your three contact points in the ball park in the traditional order (feet, bum and then hands) , give it a ride and only make micro
adjustments thereafter. Doing willy nilly adjustments all over the place rather than locking down one variable after another will end up in a dogs dinner.
 
This.
I see so many people using the saddle position to get closer to, or further from the bars. The saddle position is meant to get you in the right place over the pedals (plumb line from the front of the knee through the pedal axle when pedals are at 3 o'clock position IIRC).
Then you adjust the reach of the bike with longer or shorter stem, or flipping the stem between 'rise' and 'drop' positions. For the reach you want your bicep at 90° to your torso, and a slight bend in the elbow, all when holding the 'hoods' of the shifter.


If you get things right, your road bike should be fairly comfortable, as the boardman has a more endurance geometry, not an aggressive race geometry.
And if the OP follows all these vague factoids about bike fitting that belong in the dark ages, he'll STILL more than likely have a bike that isn't set up properly.
 
Anyone remember the "if you can't see the front hub it's right" method? Around the 80s if memory serves me right :LOL:
 
If anyone has found anything more important than comfort in a bike's fit then I have yet to hear of it. Nothing, but nothing, aces it.

No point having the most biomechanically efficient riding position known to humankind if it is so tortuously uncomfortable that your balls feel like they are exploding with each pedal stroke.
 
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