Uniglide/Hyperglide Questions

[raw]

Hi All,

Sorry to question a topic that seems to have been talked about a lot, but I'm still not clear and have been thrown even more questions by a LBS.

I currently have full 1050 1st gen 105 group set with 6x2 SIS and all pretty worn out from commuting. It's time to refresh things. However, inspection shows that the cassette from 1987 is a uniglide cassette, and these don't seem to be easily available...

It seems that I can fit a hyperglide free hub body and gain improved shifting performance from hyperglide sprockets and more readily available cassettes, but I have a load of questions.

Do I need to strip the free hub and build a new free hub with uniglide internals to fit my hub, and hyperglide body to fit the cassette, or can i just change the free hub for a hyperglide one?

Can I go to hyperglide and fit a commonly available 7 speed hyper glide (indexing issues aside) or will I need to stay 6 speed for spacing reasons?

Internet wisdom suggests I need to go for the build a free hub option, and then will be able to use 7 speed without any need to re-space the wheel or stays, and can fix the indexing with a 1051 shifter which was designed for 7 speed.

LBS threw all this into question by saying that there was no way to, never mind need to, rebuild the free hub, and that 7 speed would be spaced wider and therefore probably require the stays to be cold set and the wheel to be re-dished, if the axle was even long enough.

Someone on here is bound to have done this before me, so hopefully I can get some clearer answers on here!

Cheers all,

Rich

 

[kingbling]

As long as the dimension between locknuts is 130 on the Axel then you can go to 7 speed hyper glide with no issues just change the free hub body for a hyper glide one.

 

[legrandefromage]

Sheldon still does it the best but

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html

I have, so far, swapped at least 3 Uniglide freehub bodies over for Hyperglide bodies. The body width is the same but the spacing between individual sprockets is or can be very slightly closer together between 6sp and 7sp (5.5mm and 5.0mm). You shouldnt really notice if you keep the original 6spd down tube shifter as, guess what! That shifter will have enough reach for 7spds too!

So really, all you should need is chainrings, jockey wheels and a chain. Then a donor 7spd shimano hub to nick the freehub body from and a 10mm allen key to undo it with, last of all, a 7spd cassette.

 

[legrandefromage]

This hub should be a good donor

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHIMANO-RM40- ... SwB-1YrFpc

 

[raw]

cheers guys just the confidence I needed.

 

[legrandefromage]

https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/ques ... -freewheel

 

[raw]

Is there any difference between free hubs, worth looking for a higher quality one or are they all comparable?

Hyperglide cassette 13-30 on order, just need to order a free hub now.

Regs,

Rich

 

[legrandefromage]

no, just bearing life and seal quality. Some have lips that dont allow fitment to some hubs but the nice thing is that just about all shimano hubs can play the freehub body swapsies game

 

[jm]

Re:

Or you could buy my spare new 14/24 6spd Uniglide cassette.That I don't need as a spare any longer.Or is that just confusing your options even more.

 

[raw]

I could, but Bristol is a bit hilly and apart from the UG cassette being a bit knackered, I'm looking to shorten the gearing a bit as I'm just not fit enough to handle 42-28, hence new chain rings and a 13-30 to at least give me 40-30 for the hills! Hoping that the rd-1050 will handle the 30t cassette!

Thanks for the offer though.

Rich