Tubeless tyres

[sparkiegaz]

Hi
Well I've taken the plunge and sent for set tubeless tyres, watched a video online don't seem to crazy to do, the sealant that goes in before you bed the last bit of the tyre onto the rim ,is this like the green slim you use to put into inner tubes years ago to stop punctures or just to seal bead onto rim..do you need to put a anti puncture fluid inside tyres.
I'm sure a lot people must be using tubeless what are experiences of them ,,,good bad pain etc do u get lots punctures ,,
All best gaz

 

[Harryburgundy]

I would never go back to inner tubes. You need some sealant in the tyres (Stans). With some valves you can simply remove the inner valve and fill the sealant through the valve. Remember to top this up especially during periods of hot weather. I have had a puncture but the sealant quickly plugs the leak.

 

[REKIBorter]

Re:

Have gone tubeless on my modern bikes. A revelation in terms of grip and rolling resistance. The only problems I have had have been with non-tubeless ready Racing Ralphs with the Evo casing. The sidewalls were very porous, peeing out sealant from between the threads on the sidewalls. Took 3 days to seal and then leaked after every ride. Changed them for some Conti TL ready X-Kings which sealed up instantly even without any sealant. The beads even popped on like when you seat the beads of a car tyre.

Have had success using 1" wide Gorilla Tape to seal the rims which is much cheaper than the proper stuff.

 

[sparkiegaz]

just ordered set racing Ralph evo in grey aaaa :facepalm:
Put in tubeless tyres on site and it took me to these :roll: looks like there end up on serotta then with tubes

 

[mattr]

Evo's go up and stay up as well as anything else as long as you prepare properly.
There's a long thread on here already about tubeless.

 

[suburbanreuben]

Re:

bonty xr3!

 

[Mindmap3]

Best thing I ever did was going Tubeless.

I run Easton wheels which are UST rims with Schawble tyres (Hans Dampf, Rock Razor and Magic Mary in various combos, all Evo snakeskin jobbies). Easy peasy to seat and seal and last ok.

I do mine with a track pump...seat the tyre with a tube first, whip it out, get the tyre seated and sealed, the because I can't remove the valve cores I just stick a tyre lever in to make a tiny gap to squire my sew lent in. Even though my rear has a large flat spot it still seals really easily.

I'm not so convinced on the Stans Rim system compared to the UST one. A friend has just swapped to some Stans rims and seems to have a lot of issues getting tyres sealed.

 

[mattr]

Stans was always designed to use none ust tyres. So can be hit and miss with some brands/models as there is so much variation in bead size. Personally, I've not had an issue. Either with my kit, or kit I've set up for others.
UST is all much more tightly controlled. And far far heavier. Last time I looked you'd be fairly lucky to get an equivalent UST set up to within half a kilo of a Stans tubeless.

 

[mattr]

By the way. Scrub the inside of tyres before you fit them, gets the release agent off. Helps the sealant to stick. Stops the sidewalls leaking so much.
Leave the tyres inside out over night to make them round and spread the beads.
Remove the valve core to get maximum flow until they pop into place.
Use a decent pump. And slightly watery soap to lubricate and seal the bead while you pump.

FWIW I got some Conti Race King Supersonics to go up first time. You could pretty much see daylight through the sidewalls.........