Touchup 92 Kona Explosif Pro? Chainstay Protector? Leave it?

[quickdraw]

I'm trying to figure out what to do with the green part of frame, particulary chainstay area although back end has quite a few scratches.. Believe it or not, this is an original Kona paint job. Kona doesn't have any lime green touch up, I thought they would since a fairly recent Kona Unit was lime. Automotive paint? Or is touchup too tricky for anything more than small scratches? I'd screw it up, but my wife is pretty artistic.

Did Kona make chainstay protectors back in early 90? I recall my 99 Caldera had one.

Or just screw it and leave it?

Yeah, granny pedals, I know.

 

[Anthony]

Superb-looking bike this. Before anybody jumps in, yes it has a braze-on seat clamp and yet nevertheless yes he's right it's a 1992 Explosif Pro. 1992 Explosif Pros had braze-on clamps, unlike the rest of the 92 range.

Over here, we have something called Kurust, I don't know what your equivalent is, but provided you're just dealing with surface rust (which that looks like) and provided you rub it / file it so it's just a thin layer, Kurust/equivalent will convert it to a non-rusting stable condition which can be over-painted. Obviously you want to check while you're at it that there isn't any structural weakness, but it doesn't look like it from here.

It seems a shame that the drive-side chainstay has lost its frame protector as shown on the bikes in the 92 catalogue. But once the rust is stabilised, the simplest thing might be to apply a new strip of protector and just cover that damaged paint as it should have been all along.

In general, you should be able to stabilise, prime and touch in with auto or modelling paint quite successfully, especially if your wife is artistic. Not a perfect outcome, but it does have the advantage of preserving the original design, which I for one think is really nice, and it will look much better than lots of stone chips.

 

[quickdraw]

Superb-looking bike this. Before anybody jumps in, yes it has a braze-on seat clamp and yet nevertheless yes he's right it's a 1992 Explosif Pro. 1992 Explosif Pros had braze-on clamps, unlike the rest of the 92 range.

Over here, we have something called Kurust, I don't know what your equivalent is, but provided you're just dealing with surface rust (which that looks like) and provided you rub it / file it so it's just a thin layer, Kurust/equivalent will convert it to a non-rusting stable condition which can be over-painted. Obviously you want to check while you're at it that there isn't any structural weakness, but it doesn't look like it from here.

It seems a shame that the drive-side chainstay has lost its frame protector as shown on the bikes in the 92 catalogue. But once the rust is stabilised, the simplest thing might be to apply a new strip of protector and just cover that damaged paint as it should have been all along.

In general, you should be able to stabilise, prime and touch in with auto or modelling paint quite successfully, especially if your wife is artistic. Not a perfect outcome, but it does have the advantage of preserving the original design, which I for one think is really nice, and it will look much better than lots of stone chips.

Thanks Anthony. That Kurust sounds very interesting. I googled it and
mostly UK sites appeared, but maybe we have something over here under a different name. I see it's on Ebay as well.

I don't suppose anyone is making repro chainstay protectors/decals?

 

[Moqi]

green paint

If its the same lime green as on my kona firemountain from 1992 - see http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... highlight=
(please note pictures taken on a very dull day) The closest touchup I found is Tamiya Acrilic paint X-15 Light Green. - found in all good model shops. Its a bit darker.

 

[quickdraw]

Re: green paint

If its the same lime green as on my kona firemountain from 1992 - see http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... highlight=
(please note pictures taken on a very dull day) The closest touchup I found is Tamiya Acrilic paint X-15 Light Green. - found in all good model shops. Its a bit darker.

Thanks Bob, I imagine it is the same lime green.

 

[Moqi]

lighten

Probably best to lighten it a touch.