Oldskool13
Old School Hero
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Re: Canti Brakes
I dont think a bushing would make that much difference to the power of the brake, rather only would they rattle when not in use.
Swop to V's, its the natural transition for brakes and I remember the change was so marked, canti's pretty much dropped off the board from then on.
Only to be revived constantly by people with rose tinted glasses, and what it's really all about is the correct setting of them.
:facepalm:
They're way easier to set up and get sweet. Pretty much a 2 handed operation compared with 3 for cantis. Hence the 'Third hand tool' that you pretty much never see nor hear about nowadays.
(Stands by for canti brigade assault)
I dont think a bushing would make that much difference to the power of the brake, rather only would they rattle when not in use.
Swop to V's, its the natural transition for brakes and I remember the change was so marked, canti's pretty much dropped off the board from then on.
Only to be revived constantly by people with rose tinted glasses, and what it's really all about is the correct setting of them.
:facepalm:They're way easier to set up and get sweet. Pretty much a 2 handed operation compared with 3 for cantis. Hence the 'Third hand tool' that you pretty much never see nor hear about nowadays.
(Stands by for canti brigade assault)
DeoreDX
Dirt Disciple
Re:
Since someone mentioned 3rd hand tool...
Instead of a 3rd hand tool I would always adjust the barrel adjuster on the lever 3/4 of the way out before I set the pads. Then install the pads right up against the rim how you want them to contact. Adjust the barrel adjuster in to get the clearance you want. Vs are still easier but cantis aren't too much worse with this method.
That bushing is usually different between brakes. Might be easier to find another pair of brakes than a new bushing.
Since someone mentioned 3rd hand tool...
Instead of a 3rd hand tool I would always adjust the barrel adjuster on the lever 3/4 of the way out before I set the pads. Then install the pads right up against the rim how you want them to contact. Adjust the barrel adjuster in to get the clearance you want. Vs are still easier but cantis aren't too much worse with this method.
That bushing is usually different between brakes. Might be easier to find another pair of brakes than a new bushing.
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Re: Canti Brakes
if you change to v-brakes you will need to change levers too
Cantis are fine but they do take time and patience, v-brakes are for those with a short attention span.
if you change to v-brakes you will need to change levers too
Cantis are fine but they do take time and patience, v-brakes are for those with a short attention span.
torqueless
Senior Retro Guru
Re:
I know how the timeline goes, but if you ask me, actually the cantilever brake is a refinement of the 'V' brake.
I bet the 'V' design, which is rudimentary, was considered- and rejected by whoever was inventing cantilever brakes way back when near the start of the twentieth century..
I know how the timeline goes, but if you ask me, actually the cantilever brake is a refinement of the 'V' brake.
I bet the 'V' design, which is rudimentary, was considered- and rejected by whoever was inventing cantilever brakes way back when near the start of the twentieth century..
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Re:
The patent for linear brakes goes back some squillions of decades ago
The patent for linear brakes goes back some squillions of decades ago
CassidyAce
Senior Retro Guru
Re:
Is the movement side-to-side? If so, I suspect that the springs aren't seated properly and you might also be finding some problems with the calipers not springing back to the inactive position correctly. The internal 'prong' on the spring probably needs slotting into its proper position. If there's a black plastic washer with a little hole in it for the 'prong' that hole should be aligned with the corresponding 'hole' in the metal of the caliper so that the spring returns the caliper to the inactive position properly. If you mean that there is front-to-back wobble on the brake bosses, it could be that the external black plastic washer (with hole) is missing.
That all needs an 'if I remember correctly' clause adding. I've always replaced cantilever brakes with v brakes and have half a dozen sets of cantilevers sitting unloved in the garage somewhere. IMHO life's too short for faffing with cantilever brakes (and possibly shorter still if you rely on them to actually stop you).
Oldskool13":3do816hn said:
Is the movement side-to-side? If so, I suspect that the springs aren't seated properly and you might also be finding some problems with the calipers not springing back to the inactive position correctly. The internal 'prong' on the spring probably needs slotting into its proper position. If there's a black plastic washer with a little hole in it for the 'prong' that hole should be aligned with the corresponding 'hole' in the metal of the caliper so that the spring returns the caliper to the inactive position properly. If you mean that there is front-to-back wobble on the brake bosses, it could be that the external black plastic washer (with hole) is missing.
That all needs an 'if I remember correctly' clause adding. I've always replaced cantilever brakes with v brakes and have half a dozen sets of cantilevers sitting unloved in the garage somewhere. IMHO life's too short for faffing with cantilever brakes (and possibly shorter still if you rely on them to actually stop you
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Re: Canti Brakes
Cantilever reputation was spoilt by those daft low pro versions. I'm sure they were released to deliberately besmerch the fine reputation that normal old style cantis had....
I've some super rare shimano 1970's 600 touring cantis that can stop just as well as anything else I've used over the years.
And way better than somebody's disc brakes at the recent Gates ride.
With hydraulic disc brake sets starting at around £27 (Zoom) its all kind of moot anyway.
Cantilever reputation was spoilt by those daft low pro versions. I'm sure they were released to deliberately besmerch the fine reputation that normal old style cantis had....
I've some super rare shimano 1970's 600 touring cantis that can stop just as well as anything else I've used over the years.
And way better than somebody's disc brakes at the recent Gates ride.
With hydraulic disc brake sets starting at around £27 (Zoom) its all kind of moot anyway.
Re: Canti Brakes
Some wonderful examples of powerful cantis doing their stuff.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ep0t0BPXrLU
Even filmed at a distance, it's easy to see who has cantis.
Some wonderful examples of powerful cantis doing their stuff.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ep0t0BPXrLU
Even filmed at a distance, it's easy to see who has cantis.
Re:
Check the bolts holding the cantilever arms aren't too long (often front/rear have different length bolts), if the front brake arms are the same then do they have washers? Are they missing ftom the rear arms?
Try swapping the brakes front to rear, see if the problem moves as well, might help find if it is the brake arms, or something else.
If it is the brass bushings in the brake arms that are worn, then replacing the brake arms (maybe even with the same version) shouldn't be expensive, certainly cheaper than changing to v-brakes and levers.
Check the bolts holding the cantilever arms aren't too long (often front/rear have different length bolts), if the front brake arms are the same then do they have washers? Are they missing ftom the rear arms?
Try swapping the brakes front to rear, see if the problem moves as well, might help find if it is the brake arms, or something else.
If it is the brass bushings in the brake arms that are worn, then replacing the brake arms (maybe even with the same version) shouldn't be expensive, certainly cheaper than changing to v-brakes and levers.
