To polish or not to polish? That is the question...
- Thread starter Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Re: Campagnolo Chainset Engraving and polishing service offe
There are several 'how to' and home anodising kits on eBay.
I've used this company to re anodize a Super Record headset and
brake calipers before and they do stunning work. And in 15 different colours.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 0971704167
There are several 'how to' and home anodising kits on eBay.
I've used this company to re anodize a Super Record headset and
brake calipers before and they do stunning work. And in 15 different colours.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 0971704167
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
In the case of a part like an old style Record crank arm you may be improving the reliability of the part by careful de-burring, smoothing, and polishing. Some of those drive arms (especially from the "boom" years of the early 70's) can be full of sharp edges and stress risers, that could eventually lead to cracks. But the idea is to "blend" the surface and remove hard angles not just make it pretty.
A part exposed to sea-air, salt, etc, will do just as badly if anodized. Worse sometimes as the oxidation starts under the anodizing and digs in. I've stripped many Campagnolo cranks that have had very deep pits form under the anodizing. The key is keep your parts clean whether bare alloy or anodized, if you want them to hold up.
A part exposed to sea-air, salt, etc, will do just as badly if anodized. Worse sometimes as the oxidation starts under the anodizing and digs in. I've stripped many Campagnolo cranks that have had very deep pits form under the anodizing. The key is keep your parts clean whether bare alloy or anodized, if you want them to hold up.
I must have polished perhaps hundreds of parts by hand over the years, due to something of an obsession with having Campag/Royce type finish on all components 
One thing I've learned is that 6000 series aluminium seems a lot less prone to corrosion - so much so that some parts are sold un-anodised, yet are able to retain a polish and resist oxidation for years; think Campag and White Industry hubs, some rims, Victory and Triomphe mech's and shifters, certain Paul Component parts etc.
Unfortunately '6000' alum' lacks the durability and fatigue resistance needed, so is never (as far as I'm aware) used for quality cranksets.
All the cranks I've polished have at varying speeds started to corrode. On an MTB in offroad conditions this can begin to happen immediately. I've managed to keep one Campag Centaur crank looking respectable by regular attention and only light use, but another set is now so deeply corroded that even aggressive re-polishing would be ineffectual. Anodizing is used for a reason!
Interestingly, several companies refused to engrave or laser etch their logos bitd, believing that it would lead to corrosion, or could cause stress risers. (I'm looking at a black 3TTT stem at the moment - it's in mint condition apart from the etched logo which is all corroded and furred up through the anodising.)
There are apparently several surface treatments/waxes available that work well at preventing oxidation though. The car boys are the experts here and seem to have success with their beloved alloys. A chap on this forum was enthusiastically recommending something a while ago, I'll post a link if I can find the thread.
edit. here 'tis: Poorboys wheel wax ...see 'lewis1641' comment at bottom of thread: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=197564
One thing I've learned is that 6000 series aluminium seems a lot less prone to corrosion - so much so that some parts are sold un-anodised, yet are able to retain a polish and resist oxidation for years; think Campag and White Industry hubs, some rims, Victory and Triomphe mech's and shifters, certain Paul Component parts etc.
Unfortunately '6000' alum' lacks the durability and fatigue resistance needed, so is never (as far as I'm aware) used for quality cranksets.
All the cranks I've polished have at varying speeds started to corrode. On an MTB in offroad conditions this can begin to happen immediately. I've managed to keep one Campag Centaur crank looking respectable by regular attention and only light use, but another set is now so deeply corroded that even aggressive re-polishing would be ineffectual. Anodizing is used for a reason!
Interestingly, several companies refused to engrave or laser etch their logos bitd, believing that it would lead to corrosion, or could cause stress risers. (I'm looking at a black 3TTT stem at the moment - it's in mint condition apart from the etched logo which is all corroded and furred up through the anodising.)
There are apparently several surface treatments/waxes available that work well at preventing oxidation though. The car boys are the experts here and seem to have success with their beloved alloys. A chap on this forum was enthusiastically recommending something a while ago, I'll post a link if I can find the thread.
edit. here 'tis: Poorboys wheel wax ...see 'lewis1641' comment at bottom of thread: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=197564
Midlife
Retro Wizard
Don't get me going on car waxes..........I have a wax for my wheels......
http://www.swissvax.co.uk/product_detai ... ax_200ml_2
Don't laugh but I have spent more on wax for my car over the last ten years with this company to buy me half a dozen bikes.
I have an idea that their best wax is about £1200 a tub
Shaun
http://www.swissvax.co.uk/product_detai ... ax_200ml_2
Don't laugh but I have spent more on wax for my car over the last ten years with this company to buy me half a dozen bikes.
I have an idea that their best wax is about £1200 a tub
Shaun
