To go tubeless or not to go tubeless,and best tubeless gloop

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odd question, but how do I know this has worked? I managed to inflate and keep the tyre up with out goo, now its got it in do I just trust it works? Not willing to stab my tyres to test. I will be carrying a spare tube.
 
Don't ghetto it (cutting inner tubes open and so on) either get a proper kit (stans seems to work best as the strips actually have a rib of thicker material round the edge to help with tyre location) or get proper rims and tape.
As the methods get less engineered UST>ztr rims>stans strips>ghetto>bodged with tape you get less combinations that work, and more risk of burping/rolling a tyre off.
Think the main issue with CO2 is freezing the gloop. Either blast the CO2 in at top dead centre (gloop is at the bottom) or get a decent high volume pump. The emergency compressor in the boot of your car delivers virtually no volume, so won't work well. Same for a foot pump.

I cheat and use a 20l compressor at 120 psi........
 
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I have had a lot of trouble running tubeless in the past. Firstly they were a bitch to seat properly on the rims and I had to go to 60psi min before they would ping on. Then I still had lots of "flint cuts" in the tyres and all the sealant pissed out before it could seal the cut!

So I went back to running tubes for the last 8 months or so and have only had 1 puncture since. Then last week I went and bought some new wheels and thought that I would try tubeless again! This time the tyres seated first time and at about 30 psi! And I have opted to run lower pressures in the tyres than I did before and touch wood after 2 rides so far so good! So I think different rims effect the ease of installation and different tyres can be more prone to punctures. Also rider weight and tyre pressure come into it too. I too still carry a tube just in case though!

I'll let you know if I regret this anytime soon!

Doug
 
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So un seated the tyre and applied the liquid, re seated the tyre, and the bugger would not inflate.
Why did you unseat the tyre? If you have tubeless vales they normally have a removeable core so all you have to do is deflate the tyre, remove the core, insert the fluid, replace the core and re-inflate which should be easy as the tyre should still be seated.
 
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stevet1":l7dr45di said:
So un seated the tyre and applied the liquid, re seated the tyre, and the bugger would not inflate.
Why did you unseat the tyre? If you have tubeless vales they normally have a removeable core so all you have to do is deflate the tyre, remove the core, insert the fluid, replace the core and re-inflate which should be easy as the tyre should still be seated.

I know :facepalm: I realised that post "unseating", I thought it would be easier to unseat it and the just pour it in. I only removed about an inch from the rim.

But next time I will definitely get it inflated and seated, then remove the valve core.

Learning process!
 
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well, Stans valves & sealant arrived today, so fitted tyre, tipped in the white gunk, pumped up with track pump... no joy. Tried CO2 canister... no joy :roll:

Trip to the garage 2 mins down the road tomorrow I think...
 
try searching for tubeless threads on here, I (and others) have posted many many hints and tips on making tubeless as faff free as possible.

I'm not duplicating it all here.
 
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mattrixdesign2":1eom99xe said:
Jimo. Are these tubeless rims? Have you applied the tape. Were you able to get air in the tyres with out the sealant in?

Mavic XM719 Disc, previous owner had run them tubeless as there was tubeless goo residue still stuck to them.

Tyres are Geax Goma, which I notice aren't "TNT" (Tube, NO Tube) which is Geax's tubeless ready jargon.
The tyres feel pretty loose on the rims, I'm wondering if they are just not suitable for Tubeless?
 
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