Ti bolts - which to replace and a good UK supplier?

[ishaw]

I've just taken delivery of an xtr shifter but it's missing the bar clamp bolt. I may as well get a nice ti bolt to replace the missing one (m5 x 17mm I believe), but thinking about making the order more economical and upgrading a few other bolts while I'm at it.

So, which bolts are a wise replacement and which should I leave alone? I know various stem bolts will be different sizes depending on stem etc but are any others worth swapping out?

Once I've decided on the bolts to upgrade, where is a good source to get them all from, at a reasonable price?

 

[Retro_Shox]

personally the m8 crank bolt are the only ones id bother with.

torronto cycles are you best bet.

 

[davidj]

Re:

I agree, the only Ti bolts I am looking for are the crank ones. If the current bolts are a bit chewed up or rusting then look to stainless steel bolts. I got all mine from ebay, loads of UK suppliers and for peanuts compared to Ti, may as well get stainless washers in the order as well.

 

[ishaw]

I've been reading up and it doesn't seem worth replacing many bolts for ti ones, so will probably stick to alloy where no load is applied and probably leave it at that for the time being.

 

[02gf74]

Re:

I use alloy for shifter, mech and brake lever clamps.
Alloy for stem cap, mech cable clamps and chainring bolts.

Ti for disc brake rotors, seat and seatpost, calliper and chainset.
Stem for steerer and bars left using hi tensile steel.

Probolt for quality alloy bolts else ebay. Likewise for Ti, using lots of far east bolts without any failures.

 

[Osella]

I too use far east (via ebay) supplies for small Ti bolts. The Ti ones do seem to have a greater longevity than the fancy-coloured Alu ones that's for sure; however I have snapped a couple of headset/stem cap Ti ones, so I don't use those anymore.. J&L are pretty good, lots of 'suppliers', probably all the same!

I have used CRC as well for their Nukeproof M6 bolts for disc mounts, Magura mounts, etc when there's a sale on; but they are way overpriced when there isn't!

 

[Cavalier]

I’ve used and can recommend Probolt. Their bolts are very finely finished and I believe are produced in-house. They roll the threads onto their bolts as opposed to the much cheaper and quicker cutting which negates stress fractures forming and thus are much less likely to snap – all the more important with small bolts.
The last time I bought bolts from them I bought the wrong size so phoned them up to explain where upon they promptly sent out the correct sizes before I had returned the first lot. I think that can be used as a good indicator of their attitude to customers.

 

[02gf74]

; however I have snapped a couple of headset/stem cap Ti ones!

Snapped tightening or removing them? The stem bolts hold the front together whereas the headset cap bolt is for bearing preload so does not need much tightening.

Tip: Use a steel bolt to set preload. Tighten stem bolts. Remove steel bolt and replace with Ti or alloy.

 

[Osella]

Re:

Yes, I now do that as & when I have alloy headset bolts. Steel to pre-load, then replace.
The snapped Ti ones were one each (tightening & undoing). I think the problem was a mis-match in materials, the Ti bolt had seized inside the star-fangled nut, so when I added max force to undo, it gave way.. Lucky I'd bought a stem & cap bolt kit, so wasn't money or parts lost.

Fortunately I could tap the sfn all the way through the steerer, out the other end, and remove the extra bolt from the nut with some grips. Slightly pointless exercise, but hey-good practice and an extra sfn for the spares box...

 

[dazdc5]

Re:

I can recommend Probolt as they are just down the road in Tewsksbury .. so I popped in to pick up a couple of Ally bolts for a bottle cage and came away with stainless and Ti nuts and bolts for various fittings .. they couldn't be more helpful bunch of lads.