The story of my broken Yo eddy - with a happy ending :-)

Not an overly difficult repair to replace the down tube and I'd say certainly worth doing of you like the bike and have already had a few frame mods done already.

I only know UK frame builders but for example someone like Dave Yates charges from £90 (plus paint) for a down tube replacement, of course you'd end up with a part fillet brazed part welded Yo.

http://www.daveyatescycles.co.uk/custom ... ces-52.php
 
Re: Broke my Yo. Questions on repair..

yoeddynz":am71sc8h said:
I think the crack started near the pointy tip of the gusset- a stress riser. Many times since the early 90's I have read about gussets and that they shouldn't be welded right around. Hmmm- that's why..

That is indeed a good illustration of why gussets shouldn't be welded around the circumference of the the tube.
It seems a pretty basic design fault (along with sealed seat tubes) from a manufacturer that's frequently lauded as making the epitome of steel hardtail frames :roll: .

Repairable though, as with all things steel. It just depends on how much you want to pay.
 
Sealed seat tube is ok- I fill it full of oil :D But yeah- those gussets- I remember reading years ago about not welding right around or having a point. Well I've been sort of waiting for this bike to let go and not surprised it went there. If I do get a new downtube it'll be beefier and have a better gusset if needed.

I'll be ringing an old workmate from an NZ bike shop I worked at in 2006 who builds bikes. Hopefully he'll help me out- he is a fantastic welder.

I can weld but my tig skills are way too basic for a bike like this!!! But I could at least remove the tube and prep it all ready for new tube.

I shall keep ya all posted!
 
Second what IBF wrote. I've recently has a down tube replaced on a TIG welded steel frame. I now have a fillet brazed 853 down tube - looks kinda nice too.

Choose a strong butted 853 down tube, get it set fairly low to the head tube so that there is little or no unsupported head tube, after brazing. Do away with the gusset. Worth doing IMO.

Get a frame builder to do all the work!
 
Last week I carefully cut the downtube out and a friend who is a very good tig welder/frame builder will weld a new down tube in place. I had ordered from Reynolds UK a 853 downtube a while back which they posted over to NZ. The 853 tube will be a fraction heavier- barely noticeable bit heavier but many times stronger!



I must say that I am quite excited. I have missed this bike. I bought a Turner DW Flux which is fantastic but my heels hit the chainstays so it may not be a keeper. I miss my lovely hardtail anyway. This Yo is (hopefully) forever! Plus I miss not being able to load my bike up with gear for long weekend ride- very tricky on my Turner.

Question time- where can I get some Fat Chance stickers/decals?

alex
 
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I've got a yo that has had the seat tube replaced so it is possible to do the down tube. I was considering having it re-repaired as the seat tube diameter is now not the standard you size, but a 27.2, which make it easier to get a good seat post, but not really original. It was also fillet brazed. While I was thinking about this, I posted up a thread for thoughts/advice, and was told a few times that if I did, I would not be able to lose the fillet braze, as it would not be advisable to tig weld the same area more than onic due to the stress the process places on the metal, so I'd have a think Bout whether you want to tig weld this, or o for fillet braze.
 
yoeddynz":2vf9hgw1 said:
13062011294.jpg

you know you could almost imagine re-working that in the style of a Slingshot... :wink:

DSCN1372.jpg
 
Ha :D I thought someone might suggest that at some point. What would it be called? Fat shot? sling chance?

Id rather have the tube tigged any day of the week. Its 853 going onto thicker headtube and BB shell. The existing seatube will be fine.
 
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