The Mullet - Can I Give a Retro Set-Up the 'Haircut'?

[Pet Shop Boy]

So, we're all familiar with the 'Mullet' phenomenon, right? 29 on the front, 27.5 on the rear.

I'm wondering if the geometry will work with a retro set-up. As in 27.5" on the front and 26" on the rear. I'm currently on the hunt for a nice retro(ish) disc compatible FS frame and I'm toying with the idea of testing out the retro-mullet, however, I'm very aware that poses a fork issue if it doesn't work out.

Has anyone tried to set-up with 27.5" and 26"? Does anyone think it's a good idea? Are there any particular frames that would work/wouldn't work?

Sound off below (or whatever the cool kids would say).

S

 

[ishaw]

Re:

I've got a s works enduro which might work as it has an adjustable linkage which adjusts the geometry/bb height. With longer forks up front/bigger wheel, might the useful.

Fork/frame compatibility will be your biggest challenge. Most retroish frames have 1 1/8 straight steers. Most decent 27.5 forks are tapered.

 

[shedobits]

Re:

Tried a 29er fork and wheel on my 26" on one 456, on paper it should have worked but the ride was a bit too like a chopper so I put things back as they were after just one long ride. My two riding buddies were keen to try it but gave me my bike back quickly as they felt the bars were too high.
I'd borrowed the frame and forks from my 29er so it was a no cost trial but as above I would have to buy a 650 wheel, tyre and frame to go down your route.
I can still see the advantage of a big front wheel rolling over stuff so maybe a 650 would have worked.
Good luck with your "experiment" and keep us up to date.

 

[RickTheUncivil]

Re:

I'm playing about with wheel sizes on my B17. It's a 26 frame but you can squeeze a 29 in there.
there are decent 29 forks with a straight 1+1/8th steerer but they are not common. Used market is your friend there.
As commented above, big wheels feel tall, I'm still not sure it's quite right but have not tried all permutations yet

 

[Max Headroom]

Interesting idea - not a new one, didn’t Cannondale do similar with 24 and 26 inch wheels?

 

[Max Headroom]

: Sorry double post

 

[d8mok]

Re:

I run 24 inch all round on my Spooky but my mate had 26F 24R at the time on his Kona roast and always reckoned it was easier to jump and manual like that.

 

[The History Man]

Re:

Ahem..

 

[Pet Shop Boy]

Re: Re:

I've got a s works enduro which might work as it has an adjustable linkage which adjusts the geometry/bb height. With longer forks up front/bigger wheel, might the useful.

Fork/frame compatibility will be your biggest challenge. Most retroish frames have 1 1/8 straight steers. Most decent 27.5 forks are tapered.

I'm currently doing a bit of reading into the Marin TARA system on the older Alpine Trail, which allows linkage adjustment for shock travel, and I'm wondering if that will provide a bit of bottom bracket/geometry adjustment, albeit with possibly a bit of travel sacrifice.

You're absolutely right though, choice of newer forks is drastically limited by a straight steer, and anything decent is pretty pricey. Rockshox seem to offer the most choice when shopping new, which is okay, but I'd prefer some Fox on the build. I'm still trawling through the bay for older options, but not finding too much at the moment. The forks could well be the sticking point of the whole affair.

Tried a 29er fork and wheel on my 26" on one 456, on paper it should have worked but the ride was a bit too like a chopper so I put things back as they were after just one long ride.

I figured, given the phenomenon seems to be 29/27.5, the 27.5/26 might work a bit better as the size difference is relative. The jump to 29/26 seems quite big. I can imagine that felt a bit chopper-ish.

I can still see the advantage of a big front wheel rolling over stuff

my mate had 26F 24R at the time on his Kona roast and always reckoned it was easier to jump and manual like that.

Supposedly there are a few advantages, but predominantly it comes down to grip and steering, bigger wheels offering more grip through contact and more wheel to roll over stuff, like shed says. Steering wise, in theory, bigger wheels on the front and smaller on the rear should oversteer, which is arguably easier to negotiate in fast corners than understeer. If you're going to throw yourself into a berm at silly speeds, it's probably better to lose the back wheel first, that way you can get some good drift into the corner, as oppose to losing the front wheel then reminiscing on the run in an A&E waiting room.

Jumping and manuals may be easier due to the shift in geometry - you'd have more clearance over the saddle, thus giving you more room to negotiate the jump take-off? I've never been able to manual very well at all, only when riding at speed, and even then, not for any real distance, this will likely be high up on my 'stuff to try out if/when I see this idea through' list!

Ahem..

:shock: Is this 29/26? It looks biiiiiiiig on the front. How does it ride? And how are you riding it? Those bars look relaxed (unless that's a perspective thing), but you've got the nobbles on?! Do you have an off-road commute, or is there something else happening here?

Interesting idea - not a new one, didn’t Cannondale do similar with 24 and 26 inch wheels?

Did they? I'll see what I can find - you can't remember what frame/year etc, can you?

S

 

[Pet Shop Boy]

Re: Re:

I'm playing about with wheel sizes on my B17. It's a 26 frame but you can squeeze a 29 in there.
there are decent 29 forks with a straight 1+1/8th steerer but they are not common. Used market is your friend there.
As commented above, big wheels feel tall, I'm still not sure it's quite right but have not tried all permutations yet

Sorry, Rick, forgot this one...

Are you thinking 29/26 is a better wheel ratio? Are we talking older hardtail B17 or newer FS B17? If FS, does it have linkage adjustment options? I must admit, I don't really know the bike.

S