Swapping brake lines

[Jimmy2021]

If they work like plumbing copper olives and have not been over-tightened, they can seal perfectly more than once.
Never done bike hydraulic brakes before, so forgive me if this is wrong.
With plumbing it's all in the feel of torque applied to the olive because there's no set torque.
Hopefully whoever fitted these brakes didn't over-tighten the nuts.
As said, I wanted to avoid re-starting with brakes as they work perfectly after I changed oil and pads.

 

[bikeworkshop]

If they work like plumbing copper olives and have not been over-tightened, they can seal perfectly more than once.
Never done bike hydraulic brakes before, so forgive me if this is wrong.
With plumbing it's all in the feel of torque applied to the olive because there's no set torque.
Hopefully whoever fitted these brakes didn't over-tighten the nuts.
As said, I wanted to avoid re-starting with brakes as they work perfectly after I changed oil and pads.

I totally agree with the "feel of the crush"
But this is one of the few jobs where I insist on using the Torque wrench - it's a safety critical component, the manufacturer gives a torque figure:

I suspect one's arse would be uncovered if the instructions had not been followed on a customers bike.

On my own bike? Maybe...

 

[Jimmy2021]

I totally agree with the "feel of the crush"
But this is one of the few jobs where I insist on using the Torque wrench - it's a safety critical component, the manufacturer gives a torque figure:

I suspect one's arse would be uncovered if the instructions had not been followed on a customers bike.

On my own bike? Maybe...

Hopefully whoever fitted these brakes used a torque wrench.
It's incredible how little these things (and most things) need tightening.
Car wheelnuts are torqed (mostly) at 120Nm.
If you try tightening by feel after using a torque wrench you easily get another quarter turn and could even get half turn.

 

[paton]

https://si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/dm/BR0005/DM-BR0005-16-ENG.pdf

 

[paton]

On the subject of Formula brakes, someone mentioned Formula RO brakes
https://www.rideformula.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Manual_Brakes_2012_ENG.pdf

 

[paton]

Talking about cars etc.
If you were changing the calipers / components on the brake lines would you necessarily fit a new brake line / pipe, or put a new flare on the existing pipe?
Or just remove the old caliper or road cylinder (drum brake) and fit the new one to the old pipe fitting?

 

[bikeworkshop]

There are different standards of behaviour at work, in terms of purchase, use and maintenance.


Although I suspect the rider who never oils the chain also never changes the oil in the car

 

[Jimmy2021]

Talking about cars etc.
If you were changing the calipers / components on the brake lines would you necessarily fit a new brake line / pipe, or put a new flare on the existing pipe?
Or just remove the old caliper or road cylinder (drum brake) and fit the new one to the old pipe fitting?

On cars it depends how worn the pipe connector is.
That's the last bit which connects to the caliper and it's flexible and easily replaced.
If it's not become brittle it can be left in place and connected to the new caliper without any problem.

 

[Cloverleaf]

Not sure I've ever used a torque wrench on a bike, I've always gone by feel gained from experience, and yes that experience includes the times when a torque wrench would have saved me buggering it up! But then how many people owned torque wrenches nearly thirty years ago for home use on a bike? I think people getting into MTB these days should definitely have one as there's so much stuff, particularly carbon, that's easy to crush and weaken massively.

As to the car point, most stuff has torque figures far in excess of anything on a bike and the parts are designed accordingly. Double flares seal much better and can be reused a lot of times before you will encounter any problem as it's designed to be a modular system. Steel hard lines basically last forever unless they become damaged from rock strikes etc, or corroded. Kunifer isn't quite so long lived but I've still not seen one that's had to have a flare redone so it seals.