Sturmey Archer 3sp hub - warning Ap*ll* content!

[Mr Panda]

Well - moping around the MILs garage at the weekend I unearthed this wonderful example :shock:

Its been there for a while for kids to use when staying at the house, but never really seen much action. I was gathering together stuff to take to the recycling centre or charity shop then noticed this:

That got me going as I'd been thinking about one a few months back, never realising I had one to hand :roll: Initially thought it might be a straight swap wheel-wise as it looked like a 26incher, but no. So I'll have to relace the hub onto a different rim to be of any use (MTB-wise). :evil:

Realise its nothing special Sturmey-wise and is quite modern (1988?) but might be a bit of a hoot. Seem to recall Sheldon B doing something with one of these, a front triple plus 8/9 speed cassette which gave him 150 gears or summat

Still, tempted to use it. Had one of these as a kid and it was great fun. what better excuse etc.........

Anyone used one recently? Might be a viable alternative to SS intentions which I harboured when feeling fitter

Thinking it would look top banana on the Explosif, for example, with a RH thumbie to control the gearbox rather than those agricultural Sturmey Archer habdlebar levers.
Constructive comments only please or I'll get upset..............

(anyone want an Ap*ll* County frame, quite large, Velo?)

May consider splitting if I get enough offers :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

BTW - IF i do use it - we're talking 3 speed bike, not silly multi gear extravagance - that would be silly. Really :roll: tsk

 

[DM]

Check the axle length.
There were quite a few variations, but it's going to be narrower than your Kona. And it's a proprietary axle and I don't know if they ever made a longer one. I doubt it, as they're not tough enough for proper off-road.

I had one on a Kona Humu (112mm or 120mm rear end) as part of a "Let's make a 29er cruiser" conversion.

Depending on which gear you select, there's either a lot or a huge amount of free-play before the pawls engage. Like 1/8 of a pedal revolution or something (40 degrees).

They last forever on road bikes, even with carrying heavy loads.

But if you take it off-road, the forces involved in MTB will destroy it quite quiclky.

And a thumbie won't work perfectly, either. The hub needs an indexed shifter, to ensure it actually enages the gears fully. You can get it to shift with a thumbie, but there's no guarantee that the teeth are fully engaged = premature wear/ slipping hub/ sudden face-stem interface.

I had a Sachs (now SRAM) 3-speed with a modern SRAM grip-shift designed for a 3-speed Torpede hub. Worked fine. But it still had all the weight/ slackness/ etc. etc. issues of the Sturmey.

There's a new SA 3-speed with various shifters. No idea whether they work with older hubs, though.

If only Sheldon were still with us :cry: - He'd know everything.

But don't let me stop you

 

[jimihendrix]

I last used one on a Raleigh Chopper in 1983

As DM pointed out hub width will be narrower than MTB, may be 110mm, MTB's are 135mm, this can be overcome though if you are determined, Sheldon mentions "cold setting" for adjusting the stays on steel frames for using a narrower hub or you could use the Velomaniac method and just stand on it , you will also need a BMX type 1/8 chain but this will work ok on an MTB chainring.

Funny thing i'm building a modern clunker with a coaster hub on the rear and drum brake on the front, it's an alloy frame but i managed to space out the hub using washers and got the chainline right by moving the ring in as far as possible as there is no adjustability in the sprocket, Sheldon strongly advised against using drum brakes offroad so i'm going to try it out at Glentress

 

[Mr Panda]

Know about the "slow shifting" but good point about the thumbie control. 100 Karma Points.

Off roading - see your point, maybe best as a commuter/forestry track idea

 

[Mr Panda]

.......... or you could use the Velomaniac method and just stand on it ,

:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

 

[DM]

Sheldon strongly advised against using drum brakes offroad so i'm going to try it out at Glentress

Hahaha! That's the spirit!

Mr. Panda, have you bodged that hub onto a bike yet?
What's taking you so long?

Top tip:
Most engineering problems can be solved with an adjusting-hammer and the clarity and enthusiasm of a few beers.

(Failing that: Duct-tape)

 

[timtim]

Man .thats a nice bike, I would leave it as it is.

 

[velomaniac]

Leave bike alone and fit knobbly cycle speedway tyres £10 each by schwalbe.

 

[Mr Panda]

Well - yes actually Still will need to change the spokes/rim though, but yes, its on the Explosif :shock:

Steel bends y'know

Unfortunately i still have the triple front ring fitted so a whole new world of possibilities opens up

Mr. Panda, have you bodged that hub onto a bike yet?
What's taking you so long?

Top tip:
Most engineering problems can be solved with an adjusting-hammer and the clarity and enthusiasm of a few beers.

(Failing that: Duct-tape)

 

[velomaniac]

Cycle speedway tyres are 26 x 1&3/8th inch.

Minimum gear ratio for a SA hub is 2:1 in 2nd gear, direct drive. Lower gears cause more torque than hub can take.

Gearbox bike is a good way of using SA hub without busting it off road, I can explain tomorrow.

Mark, Sheldon said using coaster brakes off road was madness not drum brakes.

My stand on the frame method does work provided your not bothered if the frame becomes f****d if you stuff it up. Rubbish bikes need only apply.

Mr Panda, I'll have the Apollo frame if you want rid, I like step throughs and I have a 5spd SA hub that would slot right in. Alternatively I could sell you the 5 speed hub which has a broader gear range than the 3 speed you've got.

Cheers