Stuck seatpost

[Imlach]

Re: Re:

You could try to mount a quill stem with the handlebar clamp on the seatpost, depending a bit on the seatpost size. Then mount a long tube (2 meter for example) on the quill, put the frame against the wall or on the floor and start moving the tube. Quite the same as using a vice but with more momentum.

Just grabbed an old quill stem and resized the clamp a wee bit, clamps nice and tight to the seatpost. Will give it a go tomorrow.

maybe drill through now knackered seat post and attach a slide hammer?

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=329177&start=40&hilit=slide

Would love to try that but I can't seem to find any slide hammers easily available in Denmark.

Already used an entire can of freeze n release, applied through bottom bracket and around seat collar. While applying, I was hammering and attempting to twist it in a vice - no luck.

This is the wrong way to do it.

You need to wrap the seat tube with thermal jacket then apply the spray between it & the seat tube. https://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger ... 10mm/36720

I see, I had no idea. I just followed another thread on here. I guess that's what you get for not doing your research, not sure I'll be buying another can anytime soon though. But thank you for clarifying.

If all else fails I guess it's time to try caustic soda :cry:

 

[Tad]

Re:

I use a hacksaw blade to cut the seat post down its length.

Lop the top off the seat post an inch above the frame. Insert the hacksaw inside the post and saw down the length of it. Usually one slice all the way through all along its length to the steel does it. Worst case two, then out pops bits of scrap seat post. I use a coarse blade that cuts through the ally doesn't cut through the steel seat tube though. Ally being soft and steel hard you know as soon as you go through the post.

 

[legrandefromage]

My secret, secret method is to pour engine oil down the BB into the seat tube, leave it upside down to soak for a few weeks and attack it again. But thats usually before any cutting - you've kind of buggered yourself up there

 

[Remko]

Re:

Never heard that one.
Makes me think of diesel as a possibility also.

 

[legrandefromage]

diesel is awful stuff, steer well clear.

 

[Rfriend1975]

I've been to the seatpost man before. https://theseatpostman.com

He did a perfect job.

Yes he's far more expensive than doing it yourself but it was worth it for the bike involved.

Good luck!

 

[Duxuk]

With a steel frame and aluminium stem you'll have galvanic welding. I've had it with a Raleigh MTrax frame BITD. My point really is that oil or diesel are unlikely to have much effect. Brute force is likely to be your best friend! Drill the CND logo and ream it may be an option but it's an engineers job.

 

[Imlach]

Despite failing everything that had to do with physics and chemistry I've taken it upon myself to use caustic soda. Bought myself some safety goggles and gloves, suited up and now I've added it through the BB and now I'm letting the bike sit upside down, while the caustic soda does its things. Will do it again tomorrow.

Cheers,
Chris

 

[Tootyred]

I would go with the engine oil mentioned above, poured in through the bottom bracket. You can always stick a potato or a balloon over the post. Fill it right up and leave it for a week.

The potato is not a joke btw. That was the standard "bung" for pouring decoking liquids into 2 stroke exhaust silencers!

 

[Graham_hkr]

Despite failing everything that had to do with physics and chemistry I've taken it upon myself to use caustic soda. Bought myself some safety goggles and gloves, suited up and now I've added it through the BB and now I'm letting the bike sit upside down, while the caustic soda does its things. Will do it again tomorrow.

Cheers,
Chris

That's the way to do it, just don't melt the Rivnuts...