paddlingpool
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Does anyone have any tips on how to remove them without spinning the riv nuts in the frame?
Stubborn Bottle Cage Bolts
- Thread starter paddlingpool
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Penetrating oil? A bit of heat? I guess it depends how precious the paint is with that last suggestion! I would be curious to hear what people have done with this situation.
Had some stubborn ones on my Dynatech, but was able to purchase some nice anodised ones on here, you drill out the old ones (Using some mole grips or pliers to hold them from spinning, and using an old QR Skewer and and wheels spindle make up a makeshift tool to refit the new ones ala Rivet gun style. Will dig out some pics as it will illustrate better how its done,
fun at fiftyish
Retro Guru
Most of them are M4,the tapping drill size for which is 3.2mm,but if you don't have have a 3.2, a 3mm should do ( the "wobble' off the hand drill will give you the extra 0.2 mm ) carefully drill the bolt out and use a M4 tap to clear out the remaining metal and all should be well.If not the above method will be the way to go,worth a try first as nothing to lose.A cheap tap set was one of the best things I ever bought as I like to clean out rusty and or painted over threads before assembly.
Mark.
) carefully drill the bolt out and use a M4 tap to clear out the remaining metal and all should be well.If not the above method will be the way to go,worth a try first as nothing to lose.A cheap tap set was one of the best things I ever bought as I like to clean out rusty and or painted over threads before assembly.Mark.
weeman_mtb
Retrobike Rider
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fun at fiftyish":2hqxitgj said:Most of them are M4,the tapping drill size for which is 3.2mm,but if you don't have have a 3.2, a 3mm should do ( the "wobble' off the hand drill will give you the extra 0.2 mm
Mark.
Pretty sure that bottle cage bolts are M5.
Love that idea of Jussa's to set new rivnuts in using a QR skewer.
minor_LEGEND
Senior Retro Guru
I'm not sure drilling is ultimately required.
The thread starter doesn't state if there's a bottle cage attached which will hinder the access to the bolt heads. Obv drilling is more obvious in this instance though here's what I'd do.
Spray & douse the area with GT85 & freezing it in the process. Wipe away excess after a few mins & get a hair dryer on it, subtle heat but paint friendly non e the less. Then attempt with the allen key. It wouldn't hurt to shock it with a tap from above at the heated stage either.
If that has still failed, drill it with a L/hand drill bit of the correct size for an M5 thread. L/hand drill bits cut in reverse (drill running backwards) thus winding out the bolt & its remains as you go.
The thread starter doesn't state if there's a bottle cage attached which will hinder the access to the bolt heads. Obv drilling is more obvious in this instance though here's what I'd do.
Spray & douse the area with GT85 & freezing it in the process. Wipe away excess after a few mins & get a hair dryer on it, subtle heat but paint friendly non e the less. Then attempt with the allen key. It wouldn't hurt to shock it with a tap from above at the heated stage either.
If that has still failed, drill it with a L/hand drill bit of the correct size for an M5 thread. L/hand drill bits cut in reverse (drill running backwards) thus winding out the bolt & its remains as you go.
theproudhighway
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Try and get some oil in there some how. Got and old allen key? Cut the angle of with a hacksaw. Use said old allen key as an impact tool. start by gently tapping the allen key with a hammer. It should loosen it up enough to get it out.
These pics were sent to me from a fellow RB'er and I must say works wonders hope the pics explain what to do when re-fitting new bottle mounts. The skewer needs cutting down a tad and washers used to prevent damage to the new bottle mounts when using this improvised insertion tool
hope the pics explain what to do when re-fitting new bottle mounts. The skewer needs cutting down a tad and washers used to prevent damage to the new bottle mounts when using this improvised insertion tool Attachments
paddlingpool
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Thanks for the suggestions guys.
I imagine drilling the whole rivnut out will leave the back end of the nut rattling around in the frame so
I want to try and avoid doing that.
Think I'm going to have to do what minor_LEGEND said and get a l/h drill bit, then retap the rivnut.
Jussa, that is a neat idea for a make shift rivnut tool and the anodised rivnuts are nice too.
Any ideas on where to get them from?
I imagine drilling the whole rivnut out will leave the back end of the nut rattling around in the frame so
I want to try and avoid doing that.
Think I'm going to have to do what minor_LEGEND said and get a l/h drill bit, then retap the rivnut.
Jussa, that is a neat idea for a make shift rivnut tool and the anodised rivnuts are nice too.
Any ideas on where to get them from?
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There should be a large hole at the bottom bracket and headtube any dropped in the frame parts will easily pass through so don't worry about that... And if it the seat tube then well...
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