Stem rotates but won't come out. Why?

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I think those Cinelli bungs are maybe a bit too good. It had been tightened so much that it had deformed the fork tube.
I got it out by getting a thin drift past the (detached) bung and hitting the bottom of the stem from below (lots of blows, alternating the impact point).
I can't get the bottom cup or crown race past the deformity in the fort tube so I'll need to do a bit of frame rolling maybe.
https://www.bricklanebikes.co.uk/images/thumbs/0045285_cinelli-1a-quill-stem.jpeg

A normal 1a Cinelli has no 'bungs', and is normaly straight. The bungs were caused by teh one who installed the stem, which screwed to hard. Tight is tight, enough is enough... ;)
 
Success!
I think those Cinelli bungs are maybe a bit too good. It had been tightened so much that it had deformed the fork tube.
I got it out by getting a thin drift past the (detached) bung and hitting the bottom of the stem from below (lots of blows, alternating the impact point).
I can't get the bottom cup or crown race past the deformity in the fort tube so I'll need to do a bit of frame rolling maybe.
If your steerer tube is FUBAR I've got a nice pair of 531 forks going spare. Steerer tube in perfect condition!
 
Steerer tube is deformed. Once the quill is out out, take an old seat post, put a bolt in the end and spray contact glue on 80 grit sand paper so it’s a tight fit. Use a lot of oil, put the bolt in a drill and ream out the fork tube. Replace the worn out paper and then use layers of sandpaper as necessary. Usually you can get the quill back in so it’s adjustable. If it’s too deformed for this to work it will be apparent right away. If it’s not too bad this can work and doesn't remove enough metal to be a problem. A reamer won’t work as it’s not aggressive enough and you will wear it out before the flat part of the tube is rounded enough. The quill might be tight getting past the deformed area, but that is what you want.
 
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