Stem length / rise question
- Thread starter Joe_Rides
- Start date
I'm a little late to this, I know, but just noticed this bit in your post. I've realised just over the last year or so that I can cope with quite a wide range of reach and height to the bars if the sweep angle is right for my wrists. The Eureka moment was getting some On-One Geoff bars for my touring MTB, and for the first time in decades I can ride for miles pain-free.
Going to get some ~20-25 swept bars to try on my new Canyon Neuron, too, though I think I might need a longer stem to avoid the grips ending up too far backwards.
Joe_Rides
Senior Retro Guru
I had another glance over the bike last night and I am not convinced that the height of the stem is the issue to be honest. Compared to my other bikes, the Explosif riding position measures pretty similar, and the bar height isn't drastically lower than the saddle height, no more so than my "daily" which I find comfortable. Said "daily" does have Ergo grips on it through which could be a factor.
I am going to play with the saddle position some more, and possibly rotate the bars a little to see if altering the reach makes a difference before plunging into changing the stem.
I am going to play with the saddle position some more, and possibly rotate the bars a little to see if altering the reach makes a difference before plunging into changing the stem.
Madmax1993
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I know you're exploring other possible culprits for the discomfort now, but if you come back to handlebar position, it might be worth getting a higher rise bar if you find riser stems to look goofy. 50mm riser bars are easy enough to come by, but there are brands out there, like stooge who do their klunker bar in 75mm and 100mm rise versions (somewhat pricey, admittedly). For the more budget conscious, you could get a Motocross handlebar (22.2mm clamp) fairly cheap, and use a BMX stem (22.2mm clamp diameter) to fit it on to your bike.
Joe_Rides
Senior Retro Guru
Frustrating as when I jump on the bike it feels perfect, and I feel like it's the correct fit for me based on my other bikes. It's just I am noticing wrist pain after about 30 mins of riding.
The bike is fairly stiff with the carbon forks, but there is flex in the riser bars, and the ODI grips have always been super comfy for me (although, on this bike I kind of feel like a 'thicker' grip might help, such as the ergo type grips). I'm not running mega high pressure in the tyres, plenty of give there.
If I raise the stem or bar height I will likely end up with a sore ar$e as putting more pressure on it, so I'm hesitant to do this at the moment.
The bike is fairly stiff with the carbon forks, but there is flex in the riser bars, and the ODI grips have always been super comfy for me (although, on this bike I kind of feel like a 'thicker' grip might help, such as the ergo type grips). I'm not running mega high pressure in the tyres, plenty of give there.
If I raise the stem or bar height I will likely end up with a sore ar$e as putting more pressure on it, so I'm hesitant to do this at the moment.
If you're hands are in the right place but you're getting wrist pain, then try changing angle your hands are at - I just changed the bars on my new Canyon for some Ritchey Kyote bars with 27.5° back sweep, and it's way more comfortable. No change to the reach.
I tend to put a spirit level on the saddle rear and onto mid grip and measure the difference one way or other to level.... as measuring bar height alone and comparing can be misleading due to geometry etc.
I also agree that more back pull on bars helps...for me the sweet spot is about 10 to 12 degrees.
I remember seeing an mbuk video...quite interesting... demonstrating the differences in different peoples grip angle....also makes the very important point that wider bars engage different muscles in you back/ neck and are not always helpful. I personally find anything over 690mm very uncomfortable longterm even though im a big framed person.
That width also changes with grip angle...
Im now on 680mm 12o bars with 5o up and ergons....so comfortable ive ditched the barends as on these i can now do 100mile plus with no issues.....but the bars are 60mm higher than the saddle which also helps no end.
I also agree that more back pull on bars helps...for me the sweet spot is about 10 to 12 degrees.
I remember seeing an mbuk video...quite interesting... demonstrating the differences in different peoples grip angle....also makes the very important point that wider bars engage different muscles in you back/ neck and are not always helpful. I personally find anything over 690mm very uncomfortable longterm even though im a big framed person.
That width also changes with grip angle...
Im now on 680mm 12o bars with 5o up and ergons....so comfortable ive ditched the barends as on these i can now do 100mile plus with no issues.....but the bars are 60mm higher than the saddle which also helps no end.
This has got me thinking about what would be most comfortable for me. I always rotate the bars so the sweep is in line with my forearm. I do feel more sweep would be better on the wrists.
If I hold out my arm with a relaxed wrist and clenched fist and consider the line along which I am 'gripping', I would say finding some bars with a sweep to match would be the most comfortable.
However, what is usually the case is that the angle of the bars means my hands are turned inwards slightly which isn't as comfortable and likely puts strain on the wrist which front suspension would compensate for.
Apologies for the crap explanation, but hopefully you get the idea.
If I hold out my arm with a relaxed wrist and clenched fist and consider the line along which I am 'gripping', I would say finding some bars with a sweep to match would be the most comfortable.
However, what is usually the case is that the angle of the bars means my hands are turned inwards slightly which isn't as comfortable and likely puts strain on the wrist which front suspension would compensate for.
Apologies for the crap explanation, but hopefully you get the idea.
Try holding 2 old grips or anything about that diameter in your hands....the longer the better within reason.
Now move them back and forward and apart and together....in a neutral position that you should naturally adopt in free air, see what your hands want.
In theory the wider the bars the more pull back you need...but the closer they are the less you need....
Also remember that wider bars engage different sets of muscles to narrow ones too. Narrow bars being particularly bad when you have you head tilted tight up....its all doing terrible things to your shoulders and neck......thanks norba geometry for all those headaches and neck issues.....
.
Wider higher bars engage more of your trapizodal muscles as a whole and structures around your shoulder blades.
Or so my physio says!
But using wider bars (680mm ish), with more rise (30mm more), has made my riding far more comfortable and without the neck and shoulder issues i had.
Now move them back and forward and apart and together....in a neutral position that you should naturally adopt in free air, see what your hands want.
In theory the wider the bars the more pull back you need...but the closer they are the less you need....
Also remember that wider bars engage different sets of muscles to narrow ones too. Narrow bars being particularly bad when you have you head tilted tight up....its all doing terrible things to your shoulders and neck......thanks norba geometry for all those headaches and neck issues.....
.Wider higher bars engage more of your trapizodal muscles as a whole and structures around your shoulder blades.
Or so my physio says!
But using wider bars (680mm ish), with more rise (30mm more), has made my riding far more comfortable and without the neck and shoulder issues i had.
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