Hi, I'm looking for some advice re a set if forks I have from an Italian made Harry Hall frame. The bike came with a British thread headset, which I'm assume changed the thread pitch slightly. Unfortunately I replaced with another British thread ally headset which got stuck for some reason. I managed to get the headset off, but there was some galling. I took the forks to the lbs to get the threads chased to freshen it up before I put another headset on. They came back looking like this. What should I do now? The headset will screw down, but binds and won't go any further, unfortunately a few turns above where it needs to be. The frame and forks were only just painted before I bought them so it would be a shame to see them go to waste.
Steerer thread issue
- Thread starter Peterc123
- Start date
jim haseltine
Senior Retro Guru
Italian and British headset threads were 99% identical, the only difference being in the thread angle - 55 degrees for Italian and 60 degrees for British (which is also the ISO standard).
You should find that the damage to the thread can be corrected by skilled use of a thread recovery file followed by careful chasing with a sharp die. Back in the day we would from time to time recut replacement forks from 26tpi to 24tpi (and vice versa) depending on requirement and what we had in stock, so it's not impossible.
You should find that the damage to the thread can be corrected by skilled use of a thread recovery file followed by careful chasing with a sharp die. Back in the day we would from time to time recut replacement forks from 26tpi to 24tpi (and vice versa) depending on requirement and what we had in stock, so it's not impossible.
Looks like they were chased by someone who doesn't know how to use a thread die properly. 
Unless you use plenty of fresh cutting oil, frequently clear any swarf and back it off every 1/4 turn or so, the chips just get longer and you end up with a rough or chewed up the thread.
All the best,
Unless you use plenty of fresh cutting oil, frequently clear any swarf and back it off every 1/4 turn or so, the chips just get longer and you end up with a rough or chewed up the thread.
All the best,
I once inherited some MTB forks with a similar problem, which were 11/8, but this shouldn't make any difference.
What I did was use an old steel threaded top race and kinda recut the thread myself using a vice and a long spanner. I wasn't expecting much, but it worked and that fork is now on one of my son's bike
What I did was use an old steel threaded top race and kinda recut the thread myself using a vice and a long spanner. I wasn't expecting much, but it worked and that fork is now on one of my son's bike
Nabeaquam
BoTM Winner
I’ve don this many times. You can’t back it off unless you use a a pipe wrench. It cuts shallow threads. Use as a last resort.
