We_are_Stevo
Old School Grand Master
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When you've quite finished flogging that particular dead horse I know a butcher who will take it off your hands for a nod and a wink... 
Square taper, grease or not!!!!
- Thread starter dicoverybmw
- Start date
I've always applied a light smear of grease (most of which is pushed off by fitting the crank anyway) just to prevent any chance of seizure.
Interestingly I also always grease the crank bolt threads too to allow for accurate torque up with no potential for premature binding.
Never had a problem with either.
Interestingly I also always grease the crank bolt threads too to allow for accurate torque up with no potential for premature binding.
Never had a problem with either.
Grease, no (although it can be argued that grease is better than nothing at all). Anti-sieze compound, yes. Is it required/needed? No. Good idea/good preventative practice? Yes. Is it a big deal on BB taper fittings for most folks? No. Members herein typically keep their kit/running gear tidy - cranks get removed frequently enough to where corrosion isn't much of an issue - for most.
What is the physics behind the issue? Galvonic reaction between metals., especially dissimilar metals such as forged steel and aluminum alloy. All metal-to-metal parts contact, especially those which are torqued or pressure fitted and which are subject to moisture/humidity exposure benefit from a light application of anti-sieze compound.
Have a read of the some of the threads about using caustic soda to remove stuck seatposts. A wee bit of AS compound (or lube) at assembly would have helped.
If you don't know when or if these cranks will be off again, do yourself or the next owner a favor, AS them.
What is the physics behind the issue? Galvonic reaction between metals., especially dissimilar metals such as forged steel and aluminum alloy. All metal-to-metal parts contact, especially those which are torqued or pressure fitted and which are subject to moisture/humidity exposure benefit from a light application of anti-sieze compound.
Have a read of the some of the threads about using caustic soda to remove stuck seatposts. A wee bit of AS compound (or lube) at assembly would have helped.
If you don't know when or if these cranks will be off again, do yourself or the next owner a favor, AS them.
Sadly this debate will never be resolved and we will continue to see threads appearing as to;
"Can you help with my....(Insert one of below)....."
Stuck Crank
Stuck Seatpost
Stuck BB
Stuck Quill Stem
All related to lack of proper maint, corrosion, cold welding, years of abuse, or lack of grease or lube!!!!
"Can you help with my....(Insert one of below)....."
Stuck Crank
Stuck Seatpost
Stuck BB
Stuck Quill Stem
All related to lack of proper maint, corrosion, cold welding, years of abuse, or lack of grease or lube!!!!
We_are_Stevo
Old School Grand Master
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As an aside, I also have my doubts about the overtightening issue as an argument 'against...'
...every crank I have ever had has been a snug fit against the end of the spindle when I've removed the bolts prior to dismantling. How then is it possible to 'force them on so far' as to cause them to split (something else I have never come across for that matter...)?
...every crank I have ever had has been a snug fit against the end of the spindle when I've removed the bolts prior to dismantling. How then is it possible to 'force them on so far' as to cause them to split (something else I have never come across for that matter...)?
