Specialized Stumpjumper FS 1995

jorgemrnh

Retro Newbie
Hi guys,

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||||||||||| S P E C S |||||||||||

Frame - Specialized Stumpjumper FS 1995

Fork - Rockshox Mag21

Headset - Dia-Compe Kontak Aheadset ST 1 1/8"
Stem - Specialized cold-forged alloy Aheadset
Handlebar - Specialized Alloy 170g
Grips - ???
Barends - ???

Brakes - Shimano Dia-Compe PC-7 levers
Brake Pads - ???
Brake Cables - ???
Cantilever cable hangers - ???
Brake Levers - Shimano Deore LX M-System

Shifters - Grip Shift SRT-800 X-Ray
Front Derailleur - Shimano Deore LX Compact Drive, bottom-pull/clamp-on 31.8 mm
Rear Derailleur - Shimano Deore XT RD-M737 GS
Derailleur Cables - ???
Cassette - ???
Chain - ???
Cranks - Shimano Deore LX HyperDrive-C
Crank Bolts - ???
Chainrings - Shimano 24/32/42
Chainring bolts - ???
Bottom Bracket - ???
Pedals - ???

Hub Skewers - ???
Rims - Specialized Z-21 32h 26''
Hubs - ???
Nipples - ???
Spokes - Wheelsmith stainless steel, 2.0 mm SP
Tyres - ???
Tubes - ???

Saddle - Specialized Prolong
Seatpost - Tahima 30,4mm
Seatpost Binder - Specialized

Weight - N/D

||||||||||| STORY |||||||||||

So i bought this bike from a family member that was using it for the usual commute until i saw it and fell in love :)
He bought it in Switzerland from a canadian professor that originally bought it in a store called Spoke 'N Edge (Canadian Rockies), so i'm the third owner.
He had no idea of what he had. The bicycle was all around well maintained and i want to restore it and after that give it a bit of upgrade with maybe purple bits to match the frame accents. I work in the bicycle graphics design area so i will also create a graphics sticker kit for it as some of them are damaged.

Took it all apart, cleaned it and i want to bring it back to the old glory but as i'm a newbie i need some help to find the right parts and give some of the originals a better look if you guys don't mind. I love engineering, i love the history being things, and above all, i love to ride these beasts. Like in a classic car, there's nothing as a sunday chill ride in a raw machine like this.

||||||||||| NEED HELP |||||||||||

- Found some rust spots, and the area inside the bottom bracket and seat tube, has a bit of rust. Is there a product so we can like fill the frame with that will remove and protect the frame against any future rust? On the outside i was thinking maybe correct the little spots and give it a new layer of clearcoat.
- About the fork, i was able to pump it up a bit, but it definately needs a service. Anyone has some doc's about it?
- The gripships, the rubber itself, it's in a rough shape. Is there anyone that knows how to find some replacement? And also grips, the original s-works, were all damaged.
- I've tried to polish the bar so the damages would dissapear, but without any good result unfortunately. Anyon can give me a tip of how to bring back the polished look? I would love to do the same to the seatpost and crankset.

Thank you guys!
Cheers!
 

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Hi there, thought I'd drop you a message, based on my own experience with old cars and bikes.

Re your queries:
1. Rust inside the frame: after years working on old cars, I became aware that anything exposed to or covered in engine oil lasted well and was invariably free from rust. So one suggestion would be to fill the frame/stay tubes one at a time with car engine oil, and let it stand for a few hours before draining and re-using the oil on the next tube. Oil tends to find its way into every nook and crevice, and will cling to the surface. That's the routine I used when rebuilding my old Raleigh Lenton ... so far so good.

2. The grips and grip-shifts: I'm currently in the process of reviving a 1996 Stumpjumper, similar spec to your own, I've attached a few pics. My S Works grips are similarly in poor condition. They haven't been abused, but just deteriorate over time, and I've had no luck sourcing replacements. Probably best meantime to source a pair of suitable lock-on grips. As regards the 800 X-Ray grip-shifters, I would start looking for good 2nd-hand replacements off EBay, Facebook, or similar.

3. Scratches on the alloy handlebars etc: I usually remove this using 1200 or 1500 grit wet & dry, followed by a polish. Problem is that you end up removing the decals and transfers as well. If you can source replacement transfers, then you'll have a free-er hand, otherwise you'll probably have to work carefully round the existing transfers.

Hope you're otherwise making good progress with the 1995 Stumpjumper project, and yes it involves a lot of problem-solving!!
 

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Hi Craigmount,

Thank you very much. I'll try to do that and them i'll post the results here.

I'm designing new stickers for every single part that need new graphics: Frame, Fork, Wheels, Bar and Crankset.

I would say the part of problem solving is really the part that i love about mechanics and design. It's almost therapeutic I would say. So, when i found this bike and this community, i think i've found a way to release some steam after work.

Best Regards!
 
@jorgemrnh I might have some spare grips to go with your X-Ray Gripshift, pulled from a '96 Stumpy but still the same. On mine, the clear plastic crumbled in my hands as I removed them but I think the grips were fine. I'll have hunt in the garage at the weekend.

@jorgemrnh and @Craigmount I'm pretty sure I've got a set of those S-Works grips too. I can't remember whether I damaged them when I removed them from the bike but I do remember thinking that they were some of the most crap grips I'd ever seen.
 
Hi guys,

Thank you for your messages :)
Rockshox docs (many) are in the Archive and plenty of threads probably from a search..

After the original post, i found out this manual that is very complete and detailed about the parts and service of the 95 Rockshox Mag21. I've also found out that a original service kit is almost impossible to find, however enduro, sells seals for it :)
(Attached file if someone needs it and the link here for the seal kit)
@jorgemrnh I might have some spare grips to go with your X-Ray Gripshift, pulled from a '96 Stumpy but still the same. On mine, the clear plastic crumbled in my hands as I removed them but I think the grips were fine. I'll have hunt in the garage at the weekend.

@jorgemrnh and @Craigmount I'm pretty sure I've got a set of those S-Works grips too. I can't remember whether I damaged them when I removed them from the bike but I do remember thinking that they were some of the most crap grips I'd ever seen.

Thank you very much Cassidy :) Mine came off piece by piece :( Which grips guys usually use on vintage mtb bikes to keep the bike fresh, however period correct? Maybe some Ritchey wcs ones?

By the way, Just started to design the stickers that i need to change. The rims ones:

Screenshot_4.png
(Original - Top, Corrected - Bottom) Fine tuned all the alignments and colors to the factory ones (Back in the day, the way these stickers were produced there was a ton of error margin, so i corrected them a bit.

Screenshot_5.png
(Took some hours and also vectorized the old specialized logo tographic perfection. Forgot to told you i have OCD lol)

Hope you guys like it :)

Best Regards
 

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Jorgemrnh and Cassidyace:-
Guess I've been lucky with my own X-ray gripshifts in that the rubber/plastic is still in good condition. My own theory is that exposure to sunshine and natural daylight outdoors is what contributes to general deterioration and corrosion of rubber and probably plastic🌞. Best to store bikes when not-in-use in a garage or similar (if that's an option!)

Cassidyace:- (@jorgemrnh and @Craigmount I'm pretty sure I've got a set of those S-Works grips too)
Thank you for the kind offer on your 1996 hand grips. I would be interested in these for my own bike revival, if still available. Let me know if you manage to track them down. Much appreciated.
 
I too have a Spesh Mag21. I would say only disassemble it if it truly needs it, ie if the seals leak. First, see if draining, rinsing, and replacing fluid will suffice. Rebuild kits are never in stock. Mine has been apart for over a year. There was a recall on them, I believe it was the earliest model. The stanchions would separate from the crown. It is a fantastic fork, one of the first that actually worked, even if it was less than 60mm.
 
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