biglandy130
Dirt Disciple
has anyone had any good results spraying bike frames.do they chip badly,rust .is it worth the effort.
spaying bike frames
- Thread starter biglandy130
- Start date
Mercian and Argos do a top class job.
macca85
Dirt Disciple
I painted my bmx, stripped it to bare metal with nitromors, 4 good coats of primer (from an aerosol can) wetsanded, 2-3 coats of topcoat and 3 coats of laquer, it came out fine with no dirt in it, but did get a couple of runs though where it was abit thick. It's pretty tough considering the abuse it gets!!
One thing worth noting is that aerosol laquer takes aaaaaages to fully harden, unless you have a uv lamp, so would give it 2-3 days before handling and fitting it up again
Stu
One thing worth noting is that aerosol laquer takes aaaaaages to fully harden, unless you have a uv lamp, so would give it 2-3 days before handling and fitting it up again
Stu
If you're talking DIY don't bother with aerosols, your control is none existent. You'll always end up with runs and the finish is not particularly consistent. Better to borrow or rent a compressor and gun.
On the subject of clear lacquer it shouldn't take too long to cure, certainly not days. Even so you should only use it on paint that specifically requires it, the specs will tell you. Good quality modern paints simply don't need lacquer to achieve a deep gloss and a lacquer finish is much harder to repair convincingly.
On the subject of clear lacquer it shouldn't take too long to cure, certainly not days. Even so you should only use it on paint that specifically requires it, the specs will tell you. Good quality modern paints simply don't need lacquer to achieve a deep gloss and a lacquer finish is much harder to repair convincingly.
I've recently used some Montana spray cans and had a reasonaly good result. The cans are good value from Ebay shops and are harder wearing than the car paint aerosols from the likes of Halfords which I've tried in the past.
The paint is suitable for all surfaces including metal and is available in a good colour range.
Yes powder coat or 2 pack professional spray is better but if you're on a budget an good finish and reasonably durable coat can be acheived. It cost me around £25 for can of plasticoat primer, two cans of colour and a can of lacquer.
As with all painting prep is the key clean surface, primer, top coat - wet and dry with 400 and 600 between etc.
The paint is suitable for all surfaces including metal and is available in a good colour range.
Yes powder coat or 2 pack professional spray is better but if you're on a budget an good finish and reasonably durable coat can be acheived. It cost me around £25 for can of plasticoat primer, two cans of colour and a can of lacquer.
As with all painting prep is the key clean surface, primer, top coat - wet and dry with 400 and 600 between etc.
Bob Jackson in Leeds did a good job on my Argos and it was less than GBP100 for a plain colour, which I reckon is pretty reasonable.
If you're doing it yourself, then x2 on Montana cans. I've found it's possible to get a very good finish on the cheap this way. As Mattbike says, the key's in the preparation (I used U-Pol primer, then built up the Montana base coats using 600 and 1200 wet and dry between), but another thing I'd add is to leave plenty of time between each coat for it to harden properly - I did some alloys for the Lupo using the same paint and it took well more than a week to harden off (it was winter and they were in the garage, mind). If you can at all move your frame to a warm, dry place between coats this will help!
If you're doing it yourself, then x2 on Montana cans. I've found it's possible to get a very good finish on the cheap this way. As Mattbike says, the key's in the preparation (I used U-Pol primer, then built up the Montana base coats using 600 and 1200 wet and dry between), but another thing I'd add is to leave plenty of time between each coat for it to harden properly - I did some alloys for the Lupo using the same paint and it took well more than a week to harden off (it was winter and they were in the garage, mind). If you can at all move your frame to a warm, dry place between coats this will help!
I know it's stating the obvious, but the best advice when spraying is RTFM. Sounds stupid I know, but I've come across an number of bad spray jobs caused by people taking advice from their mates or a bloke they met in the pub. Rather than following the instructions that came with the paint and spraying equipment.
For example if the instructions say the paint should only be touch dry between coats then make it so. If OTOH they say the paint needs to be completely cured and sanded back before the next coat then do that.
If you want your bike to look pretty then you're probably best getting it sprayed professionally. If you want it to be tough then do it yourself with something like smooth hammerite.
Oh and would spaying your bike make dogs less likely to chase you? Sorry. Couldn't resist.
For example if the instructions say the paint should only be touch dry between coats then make it so. If OTOH they say the paint needs to be completely cured and sanded back before the next coat then do that.
If you want your bike to look pretty then you're probably best getting it sprayed professionally. If you want it to be tough then do it yourself with something like smooth hammerite.
Oh and would spaying your bike make dogs less likely to chase you? Sorry. Couldn't resist.
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