So how did Pederson Self Energizing brake work?

[02gf74]

^^^ fair enough but I have never seen one ever. cost and evolution weeds out the blind alleys that I would say this brake is.

 

[Neil]

^^^ fair enough but I have never seen one ever. cost and evolution weeds out the blind alleys that I would say this brake is.

As I said, I've got several sets - all NOS...

Seriously, though, they're not for sale.

I've seen quite a few with them on, though - bikes with Suntour cantis, and the rears being the SE versions.

 

[hamster]

I ran a set on my tourer (drop bars) for some years. They were the best setup for stopping a heavily-loaded bike until I managed to find some Magura HS77 drop bar hydraulics.

 

[walleater]

Quote = 'So how did Pederson Self Energizing brake work?'



Answer = They Didn't


Lol

Snappy comeback.

Presumably you have loads of experience of using them, then?

Doesn't need to - the fact that we do not see any of these type of brakes on mountain bikes confirms the above.

I have a Scott Pedersen F&R set on my Proflex 750 and for an old school product they work pretty damn well. You don't see them because SP only made full sets for a short space of time IIRC, Suntour went tits up, and the V brake came along which is a much more simple / idiot proof brake. When you pull them apart, they are certainly a funky design.

 

[cchris2lou]

they wrok well , but too heavy, especially the Suntour .

the wheel rotation pulls the pad towards the rim .

good idea but as said above V brakes killed most cantis , except in cyclo cross .

 

[minor_LEGEND]

I have a lot of experience fitting the Suntour SE's to tandems. They really are quite powerfull for a regular centre-pull cantilever.

Ive always thought of the priciple of them like a corkscrew, if you were to push something (a cork) along the length of the corkscrew thread, the effect would be that the cork will turn on the thread (toward the rim surface).

 

[Broken Biker]

I used to run Scott SE brakes on my Orange Clockwork race bike circa 1994/5 and they worked well on the gritty trails of Dartmoor. My biggest mistake was running them with Campag Stheno rims which were horribly narrow and concaved, making braking a bit of a horro show until the rims were replaced with Mavic flat sided rims.

The action was of the brake arm sliding down a helix and tightening on the rim. The forward motion of the wheel was supposed to pull the arm tighter, but to be honest, it just made it so that you did not need huge finger strength to stop your bike. I once fitted them to a set of Pace RC30 (or maybe 35, it was so long ago!) and they handled fine until I later changed them to Avid Arch Rival V-Brakes. :twisted:

The best thing I ever did was buy those Scott SE brakes for that bike.

 

[minor_LEGEND]

The beauty of 'SE's is that rather than squeeze the hell outta the brake lever, you can just hold the lever in the 'on' position against the rim & the energiser does the work.

 

[Bipsycho]

I have made exactly one ride with a SunTour Pedersen SE rear brake. That being said, that one ride was three days ago and was a 102-mile tandem ride with two or three descents at over 40 mph--kind of a torture test for brakes. The brake worked flawlessly and felt good, with no hint that it might inadvertently lock up the wheel. My first impression is that its performance is superior to the SunTour XC Pro brake I had back there before. The installation was slightly tricky and took about an hour, but that is not a lot different from any other cantilever brakes I have installed. In short, I strongly disagree with anyone who claims this brake does not work. SunTour haters, perhaps?

 

[petitpal]

Re:

Went back to Ritchey logic canti's and Winwood polymer blocks in the interests of reliability...

Slightly O/T (sorry) but I still have a set of those - used to scream like hell everytime you touched the levers.