My 1999 alu Cindercone rigid weighs in at 20.5lbs with nice but non-exotic bits. Bearing in mind many full sussers weigh in at closer to 30lbs and cannot be bullied up a hill like it, it can be surprising how quick climbing makes up for slower speeds elsewhere. It's biggest enemy is long gradual downhills when the geared boys can run the big ring.
Single speed? I don't get it! What's the point?
- Thread starter Kitmech
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suburbanreuben
Old School Grand Master
bryan555":kwv0x4ij said:I don't get it at all. But I do so enjoy it
That's the point...
There is no point.
Wold Ranger
Old School Grand Master
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SS
Personally I think it's great on a proper SS bike, with track ends or eccentric BB and 3/8th chains and gears. The fitness issue is more with fixed gear bikes though and not SS clutched drivetrains.
I despise nice top end geared frames bodged to run SS with 9 speed chains and sprockets, makes me cringe.
Personally I think it's great on a proper SS bike, with track ends or eccentric BB and 3/8th chains and gears. The fitness issue is more with fixed gear bikes though and not SS clutched drivetrains.
I despise nice top end geared frames bodged to run SS with 9 speed chains and sprockets, makes me cringe.
Re: SS
I kind of agree and disagree - but it is your opinion and respected. Here's mine:
Eccentric BB have one place, and one place only. On a tandem. I think it must be the worst application ever to put them on SS bikes. Change the gear...oh, I need to change my saddle height and for / aft position too.
3/8th chain is not necessary and is needless extra weight.
A chain tensioner is infact one of the better solutions; no position change, and no wheelbase change. Works with rim brakes and disk and amazingly takes care of chain wear.
I would favour verticle drop-outs with a custom chain stay length over track ends or an eccentric hub for a real no remorse SS rig. Chain slack, dump it and get a new one!
I despise bodge jobs too....but let's be honest, they look great on a hack / pub bike. It's character forming
Wold Ranger":2f9vb6eu said:
I kind of agree and disagree - but it is your opinion and respected. Here's mine:
Eccentric BB have one place, and one place only. On a tandem. I think it must be the worst application ever to put them on SS bikes. Change the gear...oh, I need to change my saddle height and for / aft position too.
3/8th chain is not necessary and is needless extra weight.
A chain tensioner is infact one of the better solutions; no position change, and no wheelbase change. Works with rim brakes and disk and amazingly takes care of chain wear.
I would favour verticle drop-outs with a custom chain stay length over track ends or an eccentric hub for a real no remorse SS rig. Chain slack, dump it and get a new one!
I despise bodge jobs too....but let's be honest, they look great on a hack / pub bike. It's character forming
Re: SS
I disagree with this - 99% of the time we're talking about the very small adjustments needed to maintain tension as the chain wears. All I can say is that you must be a lot more sensitive to riding contact point positions than I am - same goes for wheelbase changes with track ends/sliding/swinging dropouts, the changes in chainstay length needed to maintain tension aren't worth worrying about.
I completely agree
Except that derailleur hanger mounted tensioners can make it a pain to get the wheel out (if they are set to push up, as they should be) and suffer from most of the same shortcomings as a rear mech - chain slap (if they are the spring loaded type) collecting grass, branches and other debris - especially heather, they're very good at that. A BB mounted tensioner is probably the best type if you must have one, looks tidier and is out of the way of most things.
All in my opinion, obviously......
As far as the whole "magic gear" thing goes - the "magic" soon wears off, in my experience.
Woz":2x8ej9v2 said:
I disagree with this - 99% of the time we're talking about the very small adjustments needed to maintain tension as the chain wears. All I can say is that you must be a lot more sensitive to riding contact point positions than I am - same goes for wheelbase changes with track ends/sliding/swinging dropouts, the changes in chainstay length needed to maintain tension aren't worth worrying about.
Woz":2x8ej9v2 said:
I completely agree
Woz":2x8ej9v2 said:
Except that derailleur hanger mounted tensioners can make it a pain to get the wheel out (if they are set to push up, as they should be) and suffer from most of the same shortcomings as a rear mech - chain slap (if they are the spring loaded type) collecting grass, branches and other debris - especially heather, they're very good at that. A BB mounted tensioner is probably the best type if you must have one, looks tidier and is out of the way of most things.
All in my opinion, obviously......
As far as the whole "magic gear" thing goes - the "magic" soon wears off, in my experience.
