Single speed gearing

A few years ago, I started out with a 32:16 (2:1) ratio but quickly decided that the hills around me required a lower 32:18. Then I quickly got fed up with spinning out on the flats and descents so I tried out 34:18 which seemed like a reasonable compromise.

But after all the experimenting I eventually decided that any SS ratio isn't really that practical for riding in the Peak District.
So now I've gone back to a 36:18 (2:1) ratio for purity and simplicity. (Either that or I'll still suffer, albeit a bit less, with a 9 speed set up climbing 25% gradients.)

Of course the whole point of SS is an acceptance that it's completely impractical some of the time. The hillier it is, the less practical it is, but that of course is all part of the fun/pain of single-speeding.

If you ride in a flatter area then I guess that experimenting to find a suitable ratio could work out. But for anything else I reckon I'd be happiest just sticking with the 2:1/roll/get off and push selection of gearing.

Magic ratios are nice and neat though.
 
I think that's wise words. Get going on something, you can think about it forever, what matters is trying it out.

Also after about 3 months you will be fitter and more resistant to pain :shock: so will want to change gear ratio anyway!

Of course singlespeeding is slower. What's important is that it is not very much slower!
 
drystonepaul":1rlo40f8 said:
A few years ago, I started out with a 32:16 (2:1) ratio but quickly decided that the hills around me required a lower 32:18. Then I quickly got fed up with spinning out on the flats and descents so I tried out 34:18 which seemed like a reasonable compromise.

But after all the experimenting I eventually decided that any SS ratio isn't really that practical for riding in the Peak District.
So now I've gone back to a 36:18 (2:1) ratio for purity and simplicity.

I've got a T-shirt that says:

Single Speed
In the Right Gear
10% of the Time

;) :LOL:
 
36/18 too hard for the hills around here.
Going to try 36/20.

The thing is, i have a lovely lightweight chainset with a really cool looking 36t ring, so if possible id like to keep the 36t ring & go up on the back to lower the gearing.
The biggest rear single speed rear sprocket ive found so far is 20t, so will try that.
Any idea what ratio that is?
Someone said it would be about 9:5. . . reasonable assumption?

Also going on the bike next week is a set of Mosso aluminium forks. They weigh just under 500gms (roughly 1lb). Im hoping to get the bike down to around 20lbs.

All rigid, V brakes, single speed. . . just the job . . . :D

Will post pics when done.
 
I have got down to 20.7lbs using fairly ordinary bits on my 1999 (alu) Cindercone with TB P2s, so you should have no trouble with 20lbs provided you are starting from a reasonably light frame.
 
bikesnoopy":3j821j8z said:
36/18 too hard for the hills around here.
Going to try 36/20.

The thing is, i have a lovely lightweight chainset with a really cool looking 36t ring, so if possible id like to keep the 36t ring & go up on the back to lower the gearing.
The biggest rear single speed rear sprocket ive found so far is 20t, so will try that.
Any idea what ratio that is?
Someone said it would be about 9:5. . . reasonable assumption?

Also going on the bike next week is a set of Mosso aluminium forks. They weigh just under 500gms (roughly 1lb). Im hoping to get the bike down to around 20lbs.

All rigid, V brakes, single speed. . . just the job . . . :D

Will post pics when done.

Surly and On-one definite both make 22T. I'm not sure whether I've seen larger than that.

I worked the other way 'round, since I liked the Chris King sprocket on my single speed Zaskar, so have been changing the chainring to find the optimum ratio for road use.
 
Back
Top