Show us yer FSR's

[Grogurs]

Uhh, many fast and good responses, I'll try to answer them.

S-M:

Mine only does this if i stand up out of the saddle and pump the pedals (ie compress the suspension/make it bob loads)

Ghost Shifting normally comes under pressure, then you pedal easy, nothing should happen. But I experience GS also while staying seated. Even with locked rear shock.

Easy check: Go to biggest sprocket / lowest gear and check if your cable has too much tension near the suspension pivot / linkage. If so, you need a longer cable or a different routing. If very is enough room, there should be no problems with ghost shifting as it only happens shifting from smaller to bigger sprocket / bigger gear to lower gear (= like you increase the tension on the cable)

It tends to try and jump a gear at the rear, only on the smaller rear cogs though, i initially thought this was because of a worn cassette on the 98 bike, so i replaced it, and i replaced the chain, then i worked out my rear dropouts were worn, so i converetd to a 10mm bolt on axle, and it still ghost shifted/jumped, at this point i figured it was just a sloppy bush somewhere and when i built my 99 Elite it would be "fixed"

Hmmm, interesting point. I'll check my bushes, although I think they are okay, checked them 300km ago.

Never got around too working out why it does this yet, i was planning on looking at it further the next time i change my gear cables, i have wondered if its because of my cable routing around the rear linkage.

I also thought so but the routing of mine is perfectly like on the catalogues. No bigger/smaller radius.

I did change my jockey wheels a long time ago for some cheap new ones and the top wheel does not have any side to side float, so i have also wandered if this could be a problem.

I'll check mine.



BIGMICK:

i use a one piece outer from front triangle to rear mech seems to make a difference

I don't quite understand what you mean, sorry. My english is not that good You mean you use a continuous cable outer? Me too, even the catalogue pics have it. So should be nothing special, unfortunately

TWAIN:

- could be the cable tension changing due to the rear pivot movement.

Only if it's too tight. Unfortunately it's not See my answer to S-M some lines above.

- check your cassette is done up properly (i had a ghost shifting problem when i went out on my first RB ride only to discover i hadn't installed my cassette tightly enough!

Good hint, I'll check this.

- are your jockey wheels on your rear mech installed right way round (not sure if this is the case on newer mechs) but there should be more play in the top jockey wheel than the bottom i think (i could have this the wrong way round though!Embarassed)

A fellow of mine saw some months ago that the bottom wheel was flipped. So we changed it but no improvement - I find this a bit strange... XTR 950 RD btw. But I'll double-check this, too!

-check the swing of the rear mech is smooth/not stiff (grab the rear mech by the main body (tension spring housing) and pull to the front of the bike) then let go, if it doesn't return/move, it'll need loosening up - this recently cleared an issue up with my M739 rear mech which was becoming difficult with its gears/skipping etc... do this with the chain off though. you can also check the alignment of the jockey wheels and the cassette through the gears more easily as an added check. my chain may be a little short by one link i think.

This is also a good tip.


MANY THANKS to all of you!

 

[S-M]

I have also considered using full outer cables!

My rear brake cable is always getting gunged up and needing cleaned, my front cable never needs touched.

Considered swapping to full outer cables when i do my next cable swap.

 

[S-M]

http://www.thehubsa.co.za/forum/topic/4 ... cntinuous/

 

[S-M]

Well that was easy

Went out into the man-cave and found a brand new brake cable (inner+outer) plus a brand new gear cable on the shelf

So i have just converted my FSR Elite to full outer cables.

I have a full outer cable from the controls all the way to the rear brake + rear gear mech, for some reason my frame already had the first cable stop on the top tube converted (rear brake) so the outer cable just slid through, the rest i have not drilled out yet so i have used cable ties as a temporary means of keeping them in place, will probably drill the rest out anyway at some point (pointless only have 1 of them drilled)

I still have the front mech as standard, never had any trouble with that one, will probably just leave it alone.

Dont think i will get out for a test ride until next week though, work in a few hours and from dinnertime tomorrow i am away for a long weekend

 

[Grogurs]

I'm quite curious to hear your results as I already use continuous cable outings and still have GS

 

[Grogurs]

a short question: could you all be so kind to take a picture of your bike's right back?
So we all could see how your cable is routed from pivot to the rear derailleur?


many thanks!

 

[twain]

here you go: from my build thread images - but you can clearly see the cable route right up to the rear mech

since sorting my cassette out, i've not had a GS problem at all.
all my problems are centred around the shock :roll:

 

[Grogurs]

Ah, you have a shadow RD. Different (and functionally better) stuff
Thanks anyways, if my problems continue I'll try a shadow RD, too.

 

[twain]

yeah, that could be the solution to your problems M770 groupset is quite nice (so far) although i think the non drive side BB bearing is starting to make some rumbling noises/vibrations! :S

 

[krist420]

My Fsr

Some really nice metal on here! Anyone have any idea of how i can make the size of my pic files smaller so i can upload them? this site will only take upto 512kb and my pics are bigger than 2mb!