Show me your Homemade Headset Presses...Made One!!

What about removal tools?

I'll need to replace mine soon but can't think what the best way to get the old one out would be.
 
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AR-CoolC":2v0s81s1 said:
What about removal tools?

I'll need to replace mine soon but can't think what the best way to get the old one out would be.

I use an 8" length of 22mm copper pipe, strong enough to get the job done but soft enough not to harm anything.
 
Thanks for all the replies. Had a go this morning and took a few pics. As will become clear, I am no metal worker. If you could have seen me leaping around the garden trying to get a MIG spark out of my shoe you would know that. Welding is a lot harder than you think! It is made from an old steel handlebar, some threaded rod (M10), washers and a bit of oak.
Picture 001 shows an M10 nut about to be welded into the end of a small length of handle bar. This has been rounded with a file to sit on the other piece of bar. A nut was welded (badly) into each end of the small section.

Picture 002 shows a guide hole being drilled through the longer piece of bar prior to the bigger 10mm bit. The small section was then (very badly) welded over the hole onto the long piece to form the T shape.

Picture 004 is a circle of oak being cut with hole saw. The piece was then sliced in half and sanded.

Picture 005 is the finished article. Now to give it a try and maybe find some old grips.
 

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me too, me too!! i just got all excited when i saw the title to this thread. i made a headset press a couple of years ago, i just serviced it yesterday, and shortened the handles so i can get it in the bottom of my tool box. i will post some piccies tomorrow, promise. ;)
 
sorry my fotos are on imageshack, never worked out how to get 'big' fotos on the forum. the press is made from 1 + 2 inch stainless bar, h30 alloy for the contact points so as to not mark the cups being pressed in, with a m12 thread for the press action. i might go to m14 or m16 in the future, but the m12 threaded rod is all i had lying around.
inside the head is a bearing race from a canecreek headset, so the cups dont twist when being pressed.

inside the locking mechanism is a ball bearing to give a positive 'click' when you open and close the lock.

and there are a couple of interchangeable bosses to suit different size headsets, one of them specially to fit the chris king, and another for the newer hope headsets with the removeable bearings.

the other part is a crown setter/slide hammer made from stainless pipe with an alloy insert so you dont damage the crown race.
i reckon i have pressed in about 50 headsets over the last few years, both for my frames and those of mates, its never missed a beat.
 
You win! Yours loks like it came out of a shop! Good work. I'll be trying mine tomorrow. there is a frame in the loft with a spare STX 1 1/8 headset that I'll be trying to fit.
 
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