Should I use protection with a 30 year old American?

cherrybomb":29tx908u said:
Can't see a problem with drilling through the BB Shell to get access to the bottom of the seat tube to drill that.

You can always braze the hole in the outside of the shell back up after.

Why would you do that? The water running from the seat tube into the BB shell would have no where to go, I would suggest the right course of action is to have holes in both. Fit a cartridge BB and it won't be affected by any draining water.

The way I see it you are just correcting a fair fundamental design flaw with a simple fix.

Carl.
 
In classic car circles its fairly common practice on some models to drill drainage holes in things like the sills for example, both to let water have an escape route instead of festering and rusting, and also to allow periodic injection of anti-rust/sealant to keep the inaccessible interior box sections tip top.

I assume the same could be applied to bike frames, on a smaller scale.

May be a good idea to have a look in the bottom bracket shell of your Fat and see if there is a way for water to get in there, might help determine what you do next.

A lot of frames have open holes in the seat stays or chain stays, or rack mounts etc, which can allow some water in, usually when washing the bike with a hosepipe etc.
 
drcarlos":2dcg0igj said:
cherrybomb":2dcg0igj said:
Can't see a problem with drilling through the BB Shell to get access to the bottom of the seat tube to drill that.

You can always braze the hole in the outside of the shell back up after.

Why would you do that? The water running from the seat tube into the BB shell would have no where to go, I would suggest the right course of action is to have holes in both. Fit a cartridge BB and it won't be affected by any draining water.

The way I see it you are just correcting a fair fundamental design flaw with a simple fix.

Carl.


Most frames are like this, water runs into the BB shell and stays there. The BB shell is a lot thicker than the seattube so it's not as much of a problem. Although BB's tend to get stuck in.
 
Rampage":5mj88zin said:
drcarlos":5mj88zin said:
cherrybomb":5mj88zin said:
Can't see a problem with drilling through the BB Shell to get access to the bottom of the seat tube to drill that.

You can always braze the hole in the outside of the shell back up after.

Why would you do that? The water running from the seat tube into the BB shell would have no where to go, I would suggest the right course of action is to have holes in both. Fit a cartridge BB and it won't be affected by any draining water.

The way I see it you are just correcting a fair fundamental design flaw with a simple fix.

Carl.


Most frames are like this, water runs into the BB shell and stays there. The BB shell is a lot thicker than the seattube so it's not as much of a problem. Although BB's tend to get stuck in.

I guess it depends on the cable/routing guide arrangement but most water will drain out from the hole to attach the guide, probably became more of the problem in the 90s with over the top cable routings becoming more prevalent, rusted out seat tubes is more of a flaw than a stuck bb, at least that can be sorted will tools at home.

Carl
 
The water won't come out of the hole that the cable guide is screwed into as it won't get through the bolt.
I agree with the rest if what your saying though :)
 
It doesn't really help but here is the bike in question.
 

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That is nicely understated in black.

I would go ahead and make holes in her, and bung them. I use Castrol Motorcycle Chain Wax as a 'frame saver'; have done for many years with great results. Naturally ensure you are free of rust first. Currently I am using Oxalic acid solution to prep frames and car parts before flushing where necessary with baking soda to neutralise before plenty of water, drying thoroughly and then spraying with the wax. Looks like your paint could use a touch up too.
 
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