Shimano rear hub identification

[twiddler]

I have looked but I can't see any part no's on it and the print on silver sticker in the middle of it has worn off.

I need to rebuild the hub to take a 9 speed ( with an 11 tooth). Its currently fitted with a 7 speed cassette and the bike is a 1989 Clockwork & I think the hub is original. I'm aware that the freehub will need replacement and I'll need to re dish the wheel.

My basic question is if I buy a modern Deore hub eg ex fleabay will the cones fit ? - the current ones are shot. I looked at the Shimano tech docs but there does not seem to be any common part nos between hubs.

If the cones don't fit and the hub flange is the same dimensions what are my chances of rebuilding the wheel using the exisiting rim & spokes ? I'm trying to keep costs down as I have had to replace the complete drive train.

All advice greatfully received !

 

[drcarlos]

Sounds like a mountain lx hub to me, pictures would be useful. Not sure if later depre lx cones and seals would fit.

Carl

 

[twiddler]

Carlos,

Thanks for the quick reply. Yes its an MTB hub images attached caliper shows o.d. of cone @ 17mm

 

[marc two tone]

Quite a few pre-parallax hubs are similar, until you hit XT sort of level, then the grease guards get fancy.

Your hub looks a lot like LX550. exage. Whilst rebooting a marin eldridge this year i encountered a pretty duff freehub and grumbling bearings so, i took an educated guess and purchased this.......

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shim ... -prod87011

So i gained a spanking new freehub body, cones, bearings and just had to mess and swap round the grease guards until it went together correctly, a new mixed with old kind of job at a price cheaper than the freehub on it's own. The axle was kept as per original one, being longer than the RSX.
The drawback is that you intend to go 9sp at the rear. Again many freehubs will work with your existing shell. LX570 will, that i do know but again, the seals/guards may have to be a botch of new and old to get it all happy.
Whilst you are at it, check the main shell bearing surfaces for pitting and general wear, if in poor nick it may be worth looking for a good condition like-for-like and swap it out to save you some spannering. Although a wheel re-lace is on the cards then.

All the best.

 

[bm0p700f]

Why not buy a deroe freehub and a matching deore axle and cone kit from a modern hub and use the DS cone and axle only. This way no seal issues.

 

[twiddler]

Gents ,

You both advocate buying a donor hub they certainly work out cheaper than spares.

I need to go 9 speed to match some Sram X0 twist shifts as SWMBO has arthritic hands & can't use thumb operated ones.

So if I use the donor hubs cones, & freehub the seal issue is avoided because the seal does not seal on the cone but the nut that abuts it ?

 

[marc two tone]

It would ultimately depend on which hub you get hold of to rob. However
the issue of seals/guards etc is the least of your worries. I have mixed and matched nuts, washers, seals etc...loads of times and had no lasting problems.

Getting hold of a Deore m510 would be a good thing. That would get you your 8/9 sp freehub body, axle, cones etc...things will fall into place from there.
An alternative to all the above is to stick with 7sp(no re-dish) and just use 7 clicks of your said shifters. once the limit screws are set on the mech simply use 1-7 on the shifters. When setting the shifter up, do so on gear 7 as it will be the lowest point on the mech, this way the cable will remain taught. 8 and 9 simply wont be in commission.

 

[twiddler]

Marc,

That's really helpful, and deore 510 hubs are a good price. I,ll see if I can get the 9 going as this is not a retro build as such rather an update. I looked at buying her anew bike but was not impressed with them in my price range. I have a Roberts road bike that I don't ride and have owned a Prestige since the mid 90's which SWMBO also rides hence the recent purchase of the Clockwork.

Thanks again for the replies

Tony