Setting up Grafton brakes

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I have NEVER been able to.set Grafton brakes without them feeling spongey as hell.

Anyone have any tips for getting them to feel more er...solid?



 
Grafton arms are longer than classic cantilever (shimano or Suntour). So, they feel a bit spongey but give more power.
On the Re-Entry, you can change the axe position, like Avid levers. In your case, put the axe the nearest of the handlebar
 
There is also the general rule of short straddle cable = more sponge and more straddle cable = harder feeling but also less power in some cases, saying that you're running about as short a rear straddle as I'd dare before the chill pill hits the cable stopper...

When operating can you visually see where the flex is occurring - i.e canti posts flexing etc?
 
Lower the chill pill so it almost touches the tire.. Then move brake blocks towards the tire so the arms sit farther away from the rim; does this make any sense? Next move the pivot on the levers towards the hbar.
 
Re:

I think that your brake adjustment problems are not exclusive to Grafton brakes

Over the evolution of the cantilever brake there has been a shift to ever greater mechanical advantage
in the brake design . This means that for a given brake lever pressure the pad pressure has increased

This change has been achieved by looking at the basic geometry of the brake lever pivots and
more importantly increasing the brake arm lengths while reducing the profile ( for clearance )

The result has been a greatly increased pressure on the brake pad causing the pad to deform temporarily
as it touches the rim . This deformation is felt as a spongy/squidgy feel at the lever

To quote Sheldon Brown " brakes with a rock hard feel may seem nice on the workstand , but when it comes
to making the bike actually stop , the spongy setup will do the job better with less finger pressure and
greater margin for safety in wet weather "

You have several options to solve this ' problem ' firstly reducing the mechanical advantage of the brakes
by increasing the length of the straddle cable . However there is not much room to do this in your setup .
Secondly you need the hardest ( non squidgy ) brake pads while retaining a high coefficient of friction , and finally if your
brake pads are of the post fitting type , move the brake arms further apart to change the basic geometry , they will
no longer be quite so low profile , but will be slightly less efficient which will help . You are looking for marginal
losses here !

There is also a possibility that the seat stays are moving slightly as mentioned above
 
dyna-ti":170lyoum said:
Maybe.....they're just shiny but just not good brakes.

Oh go on, I've said it :LOL:

They were on John Tomac´s downhill and xc bike w/ no paycheck attached. That says a lot. :cool:
 
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