Seat tube angle

[shinobi]

Hi
Wasnt sure where to post this so started here !
My hardtail / rigid bike collection consists of Konas from 1995 to 2005 , my work bikes are either 95 cinder cone or 97 Muni mula depended on weather .
I wanted to give the cinder cone an overhaul and the only spare frame with mudguard fittings i had was a 95 Raleigh M trax TI1000 so i built this up for wet weather duty , but i find instantly that i get knee / hip pain on it , the seat height is correct and the only big differnce i can see is the seat tube angle listed at 71.5 where the Konas seem to be around 73/74 do you think this could be the cause ?

Cheers Paul

 

[iveto1983]

Yes, it could definitely be the cause. It can sometimes be corrected with an inline post or just moving the saddle forwards.

 

[shinobi]

Yes, it could definitely be the cause. It can sometimes be corrected with an inline post or just moving the saddle forwards.

Thanks for the reply , I did play around with saddle position but tbh it still felt my knees are under my chin ! Taking the Cinder cone today so we’ll see lol !
Cheers Paul

 

[bikeworkshop]

Shape of the saddle could move your position a cm or 2.
Crank length can have some effect - as a rule shorter encourages a higher cadence, and reduces the overall knee bend and leg "reach"

Choosing a lower gear is the most common cure.

Otherwise, pay a visit:

Fountain of Youth - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

 

[Tootyred]

Try measuring the seat position relative to the crank. If you can use the same seat it helps too for the process. This will give you your position irrespective of the seat tube angle.

Put the rear tyre up against a wall, then measure from wall to centre of crank bolt.

Now measure from the wall to the nose of the saddle.

Now take one from the other.

Using the same or similar saddle will then give you the relative distance you are sitting from the crank. I find this method far far easier than trying to hold a spirit level dead upright and the bike dead upright and a tape measure etc....

Just adjust the uncomfortable bike to the same measurement as the comfy one!

 

[clubby]

Whole bike geometry can affect how you feel on it. Top tube length, bar height etc can all put your weight in different positions.
On a fleet of bike I don’t believe in a prescribed perfect saddle height. Just adjust it until it’s comfy. Could also be too wide or narrow a saddle causing your hips to rock.

 

[Tootyred]

Next step is then to mimic the reach and stack by altering the stem...

Its not an exact science as there are loads of other things that get involved, but its a good start,

 

[klunkrider]

Whole bike geometry can affect how you feel on it. Top tube length, bar height etc can all put your weight in different positions.
On a fleet of bike I don’t believe in a prescribed perfect saddle height. Just adjust it until it’s comfy. Could also be too wide or narrow a saddle causing your hips to rock.

Agree with this. Would worry less about replicating a position from another bike and just try to get this one comfy.

 

[shinobi]

Shape of the saddle could move your position a cm or 2.
Crank length can have some effect - as a rule shorter encourages a higher cadence, and reduces the overall knee bend and leg "reach"

Choosing a lower gear is the most common cure.

Otherwise, pay a visit:

Fountain of Youth - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

Amazing

 

[shinobi]

Try measuring the seat position relative to the crank. If you can use the same seat it helps too for the process. This will give you your position irrespective of the seat tube angle.

Put the rear tyre up against a wall, then measure from wall to centre of crank bolt.

Now measure from the wall to the nose of the saddle.

Now take one from the other.

Using the same or similar saddle will then give you the relative distance you are sitting from the crank. I find this method far far easier than trying to hold a spirit level dead upright and the bike dead upright and a tape measure etc....

Just adjust the uncomfortable bike to the same measurement as the comfy one!

Thats an interesting idea , i always use the same saddle type/ model etc on all mine and the try to start at the same crank centre to seatpost centre distance . Rode the Kona today and no pain , I think the " Fountain of youth " suggestion could also be helpful looking back at the last time i had that built up as a cross country bike was 10 years ago at least and running 120mm 6 deg rise stem not the 90/100mm high rise stem its got on at the moment
Paul