Seat post struck in frame

[incorrigible]

A magnet would tell you if its steel or not,
if the post is seized in frame
chances are it will get quite scratched, using pipe gripper method
if you have access to bench vice
secure the seat post in vice
and use the frame as leverage .
if this doesn't works
i recommend a nice cup of tea.
as it could get extreme

I did this recently to a Yeti Ultimate with a steel seatpost stuck in it. I used someting called "Kroil" penetrating oil, which is 1,000 times better penetrating than WD-40. Soaked it in Kroil and a rag for a few days, put a curved-jaw locking pliers (brand name: Vise-Grips) on it and then used a 6-foot cheater pipe on the pliers, laid the frame on a carpeted floor and stood on it, and slo-o-o-owly worked the 6-foot bar back and forth until I got some movement, evidenced by a loud, low groan. Once I got some movement, I continued back and forth while periodically adding more Kroil. As the post and tube "assembly" heated up from friction, I waited and let it cool down before attempting to move it again.

When it was all done, the seat post was garbage (teeth marks, flattened, bent, even torn in one place), but the frame was saved!

 

[alainbriot]

It's steel.

 

[fiendish feet]

A magnet would tell you if its steel or not,
if the post is seized in frame
chances are it will get quite scratched, using pipe gripper method
if you have access to bench vice
secure the seat post in vice
and use the frame as leverage .
if this doesn't works
i recommend a nice cup of tea.
as it could get extreme

I did this recently to a Yeti Ultimate with a steel seatpost stuck in it. I used someting called "Kroil" penetrating oil, which is 1,000 times better penetrating than WD-40. Soaked it in Kroil and a rag for a few days, put a curved-jaw locking pliers (brand name: Vise-Grips) on it and then used a 6-foot cheater pipe on the pliers, laid the frame on a carpeted floor and stood on it, and slo-o-o-owly worked the 6-foot bar back and forth until I got some movement, evidenced by a loud, low groan. Once I got some movement, I continued back and forth while periodically adding more Kroil. As the post and tube "assembly" heated up from friction, I waited and let it cool down before attempting to move it again.

When it was all done, the seat post was garbage (teeth marks, flattened, bent, even torn in one place), but the frame was saved!

It's a liberating sound hearing the chemical bonds crack free and
release i had a similar experience to you ,used 5 foot breaker bar and
pipe wench plenty off oil used though out ..
A lot of force was needed alloy post was destroyed
Haven't the desire to repeat this after few hernia repairs

 

[incorrigible]

It's a liberating sound hearing the chemical bonds crack free and release...

Agreed
Patience and determination are your friends in such a situation.

 

[Peachy!]

If you still have no joy, you could try this chap;
http://theseatpostman.com/

 

[alainbriot]

It's an excellent suggestion unfortunately I live in the US... If you know of a similar service where I live let me know.

BTW the post is aluminum. My typing steel earlier on was a typo. I don't know what I was thinking.

 

[PaintedDesert]

BTW the post is aluminum. My typing steel earlier on was a typo. I don't know what I was thinking.

that's good news, aluminum is much softer so if you have to go down the hacksaw route, it will take much less time than it would for a steel seatpost.

See my K2 thread for my own adventure removing a stuck seatpost. Nothing worked (though I didn't try the slide hammer) so I had to use the hacksaw.

 

[alainbriot]

From reading here and elsewhere it seems that the most sensitive route if it is stuck solid is to use an adjustable reamer. I think that's the method the Seatpostman referred to above uses.

 

[alainbriot]

Devout Dirtbag: just to know, how did you hacksaw the post out of the frame? How did you hold the saw blade? Did you use a blade holder or just hold it in your hand? Also, did you have to make a single cut, 2 cuts or more?

 

[sherlylock]

Aluminium seatpost in steel frame - first port of call is to freeze it out (as mentioned previously). Not sure if you have a product like plumbers freeze spray in the US.....

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Pipe-Fr ... g/p/424922

......but emptying a can of that into the frame/seatpost area works a treat. The aluminium shrinks at a greater rate than the steel and will eventually allow the post to come out (the reason it's stuck in the first place is corrosion which has effectively made the post larger - as I understand it).

If not you can cut them out using a hacksaw blade. I mounted one in a homemade bespoke holder to make it easier to use. I'll post a pic up of it when I get home....and it worked rather well.